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Kalipe - Peitlerkofel

First ascent: Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner 26/01/2019
By: Simon Gietl
Area: Dolomites, Group: Puez - Geisler, Peak: Peitlerkofel, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Kalipe is a sustained mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel with a crux pitch that is difficult to protect. Five pitons were placed, only at the belays.

ACCESS

From Bolzano take the A22 towards Brenner, exit at Chiusa - Val Gardena, then drive up Val di Funes via the SP163 to Würzjoch / Passo delle Erbe (2008m). Alternatively, from San Martino in Val Badia follow the SP 29 to the pass. Park here.

ROUTE

Kalipe starts up Via Hruschka, the first route up the north wall established on 24 August 1919 by W. Erschbaumer, J. Hruschka, F. Neuner and L. Radschiller. At the snowfield Kalipe trends left to the obvious ice drip - in summer this steak is almost always wet and consequently there are no other routes at this point - before finishing up Pinatupo (Luigi Tiddia, Cristina Fronza, Edy Boldrin, Davide Marinovich, summer 1991).

DESCENT

Walk down the normal the route.

GEAR

Full trad rack and ice screws.

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

M6

FACE

North

LENGTH

600m

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LINK

www.simongietl.it

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