Kalipe - Peitlerkofel
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Simon Gietl, Mountain Guide
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Kalipe: Simon Gietl making the first ascent, Peitlerkofel, Dolomites
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Beauty
First ascent
Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner 26/01/2019
By
Simon Gietl, Mountain Guide
Orientation
North
Length
600m
Difficulty
M6
Route
Kalipe is a sustained mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel with a crux pitch that is difficult to protect. Five pitons were placed, only at the belays.
Access
From Bolzano take the A22 towards Brenner, exit at Chiusa - Val Gardena, then drive up Val di Funes via the SP163 to Würzjoch / Passo delle Erbe (2008m). Alternatively, from San Martino in Val Badia follow the SP 29 to the pass. Park here. Itinerary
Kalipe starts up Via Hruschka, the first route up the north wall established on 24 August 1919 by W. Erschbaumer, J. Hruschka, F. Neuner and L. Radschiller. At the snowfield Kalipe trends left to the obvious ice drip - in summer this steak is almost always wet and consequently there are no other routes at this point - before finishing up Pinatupo (Luigi Tiddia, Cristina Fronza, Edy Boldrin, Davide Marinovich, summer 1991). Descent
Walk down the normal the route. Gear
Full trad rack and ice screws.
From Bolzano take the A22 towards Brenner, exit at Chiusa - Val Gardena, then drive up Val di Funes via the SP163 to Würzjoch / Passo delle Erbe (2008m). Alternatively, from San Martino in Val Badia follow the SP 29 to the pass. Park here. Itinerary
Kalipe starts up Via Hruschka, the first route up the north wall established on 24 August 1919 by W. Erschbaumer, J. Hruschka, F. Neuner and L. Radschiller. At the snowfield Kalipe trends left to the obvious ice drip - in summer this steak is almost always wet and consequently there are no other routes at this point - before finishing up Pinatupo (Luigi Tiddia, Cristina Fronza, Edy Boldrin, Davide Marinovich, summer 1991). Descent
Walk down the normal the route. Gear
Full trad rack and ice screws.
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Beauty
First ascent
Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner 26/01/2019
By
Simon Gietl, Mountain Guide
Orientation
North
Length
600m
Difficulty
M6
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
02/02/2019 - Alpinism
Peitlerkofel Dolomites / Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner add new winter climb On 26 January 2019 Italian mountaineers Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner made the first ascent of Kalipe, a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel...