Via Holly - Cima di Stanislao
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Cristian Candiotto
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Via Holly
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Cristian Candiotto, Benigno Balatti 19/12/2017
By
Cristian Candiotto
Length
180 m
Difficulty
AI 5 M5, 60/70°
Fantastic line of ice and mixed climbing up the fore-summit of Mount Stanislao peak above Lake Zancone in Valle Trona.
Getting there
From the carpark at Pescegallo in Val Gerola follow the path towards the Trona dam and then continue on to Lake Zancone. 3 hours Access
From the lake the climb ascends to the left of the icefall Vale. Climb up the 30° slope for 100 meters, enter the gully and belay. Itinerary
P1: 60 m gully 60/70° to the start of the drip.
P2: 40m, 5 M5, belay on rock and ice
P3: 30m, 4 M4, good belay on ice.
P4: 50m, 4 M4, belay on summit plateau.
From the carpark at Pescegallo in Val Gerola follow the path towards the Trona dam and then continue on to Lake Zancone. 3 hours Access
From the lake the climb ascends to the left of the icefall Vale. Climb up the 30° slope for 100 meters, enter the gully and belay. Itinerary
P1: 60 m gully 60/70° to the start of the drip.
P2: 40m, 5 M5, belay on rock and ice
P3: 30m, 4 M4, good belay on ice.
P4: 50m, 4 M4, belay on summit plateau.
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Beauty
First ascent
Cristian Candiotto, Benigno Balatti 19/12/2017
By
Cristian Candiotto
Length
180 m
Difficulty
AI 5 M5, 60/70°
Routes in the same mountain group
Show more in Alpi Orobie
Related news
26/12/2017 - Alpinism
Winter climbing in the Orobie Alps / New mixed route in Valle di Trona In Valle Trona (Val Gerola, Orobie Alps) Cristian Candiotto and Benigno Balatti made the first ascent of Holly, a new climb up Mt. Stanislao. Candiotto provides the report.