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Via Holly

First ascent: Cristian Candiotto, Benigno Balatti 19/12/2017
By: Cristian Candiotto
Area: Central Alps, Group: Livigno Alps, Peak: Cima di Stanislao, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Fantastic line of ice and mixed climbing up the fore-summit of Mount Stanislao peak above Lake Zancone in Valle Trona.

GETTING THERE

From the carpark at Pescegallo in Val Gerola follow the path towards the Trona dam and then continue on to Lake Zancone. 3 hours

ACCESS

From the lake the climb ascends to the left of the icefall Vale. Climb up the 30° slope for 100 meters, enter the gully and belay.

ROUTE

P1: 60 m gully 60/70° to the start of the drip.
P2: 40m, 5 M5, belay on rock and ice
P3: 30m, 4 M4, good belay on ice.
P4: 50m, 4 M4, belay on summit plateau.

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

AI 5 M5, 60/70°

LENGTH

180 m

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