Saumons et Glacons - Combe Maudite
An ephemeral couloir, never too extreme but not to be underestimated due to the difficulty in placing gear on some pitches. Comparable to the Rebuffat Terray route on the Pelerins in dry conditions... with a bit more climbing to do...!
GETTING THERE
Take the A5 to Courmayeur and park at La Palud at the bottom of the Punta Helbronner cablecar.
ACCESS
From the Torino refuge, go via the Flambeaux col, past the North face of the Tour Ronde to reach Combe Maudite.
ROUTE
DESCENT
From the last belay, abseil down the line of the route. Alternatively, if there are other parties on the final pitches, from the last belay abseil down the parallel gully to the right (as you face the mountain...) and locate a pegged belay; from here one abseil will take you back to B3 to pick up the route line.
GEAR
Set of C4 cams up to size 2 (3 is useful if it's dry), some C3s, 3 short ice screws, a couple of medium ice screws.
NOTES
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