IceSaumons et Glacons
By: Enrico Bonino, Mountain Guide
Area: Western Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Combe Maudite, Country: France
An ephemeral couloir, never too extreme but not to be underestimated due to the difficulty in placing gear on some pitches. Comparable to the Rebuffat Terray route on the Pelerins in dry conditions... with a bit more climbing to do...!
GETTING THERE
Take the A5 to Courmayeur and park at La Palud at the bottom of the Punta Helbronner cablecar.
ACCESS
From the Torino refuge, go via the Flambeaux col, past the North face of the Tour Ronde to reach Combe Maudite.
ROUTE
Ascend the gully which leads to Filo d'Arianna for about 6 pitches (bolted belays on the left). Don't stop at the belay on the rocky outcrop before the narrow gully but continue up to the narrow section and, on the right below the overhang, locate a bolted belay sheltered from the fall line.
P1: traverse to the left to find an obvious rock slab (M4+/M5 depending on conditions) with a line of ice running through it, 50m belay to the left using a peg and a spike;
P2: 75/80 degree ice, difficult to place gear, 55m belay on the right using a peg and large spike;
P3: 75/80 degree couloir followed by a M5/M5+ corner, grade depending on the ice conditions, 55m belay on the right using a large spike;
P4: Ephemeral couloir with 80 degree sections, difficult to place gear, 50m belay with pegs on ledge to the left;
P5: Enclosed ephemeral couloir with short overhanging finish, continue on the slope to the snowy secondary ridge obstructed by blocks. If it is not visible, dig on the ridge line to find a thread around a large spike.
DESCENT
From the last belay, abseil down the line of the route. Alternatively, if there are other parties on the final pitches, from the last belay abseil down the parallel gully to the right (as you face the mountain...) and locate a pegged belay; from here one abseil will take you back to B3 to pick up the route line.
GEAR
Set of C4 cams up to size 2 (3 is useful if it's dry), some C3s, 3 short ice screws, a couple of medium ice screws.
NOTES
THIS ROUTE IS NOT RECOMMENDED WHEN IT IS BUSY. THE GULLY SPACE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR MORE THAN 2 ROPE GROUPS, WHO MUST COORDINATE THEMSELVES WELL TOGETHER!!!
AT THE START OF THE SEASON IT IS BETTER TO LEAVE THE REFUGE EARLY IN THE MORNING TO CLIMB THE SLOPE IN THE SHADE.
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