Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowIce arrowItineraries arrowDepravation

Depravation - Presanella

First ascent: Patrick Ghezzi and Francesco Salvaterra on 31/03/2012
By: Francesco Salvaterra
Area: Central Alps, Group: Adamello - Presanella, Peak: Presanella, Height: 3558m, Country: Italy

Climbing this route was extremely satisfying, it's only five pitches high but all are extremely beautiful, difficult and different, the rock is always splendid and the scenery is grandiose.

The conditions were relatively good, with a thin ice vein on pitches one and three which allowed the leader (at least) to climb well. The rock sections are just as demanding and although we believe the aid sections can be climbed free, we preferred to continue with crampons clipped on, ready for the next mixed pitch. Due to the poor snow on the upper section we were forced to abseil off from the shoulder where the major difficulties had come to an end; one can continue far more easily up to the summit from here.


From Rifugio Segantini (1 hour from the summer car park) head towards Bocca d'Amola (2 hours) to beneath the face. The route is loacted to the right of the central corner of the Via delle Guide, at the base of an obvious large pillar split by a long, diagonal crack. Climb the mixed corner at the base of the pillar to reach the peg and sling on the right after circa 15m.


Four abseils with in-situ gear. The first two are on the route, the third is off route to the left (facing the mountain). The fourth is on a snow mushroom.


The five pegs we used were left in-situ. Take a set of camming devices up to #4, micro 1 and 0, nuts, 2-3 ice screws, hammer and pegs may be found useful. Rock shoes recommended for the leader, two 60m ropes.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Depravation"

No comments found for Depravation

Details / Icefall

stella stella stella stella stella


TD+/ED- WI 5 M6 VI+ A1/2








Read main article



SEARCH Icefalls




More itineraries
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer