Shipton Spire, Trango, Pakistan, Mauro Bubu Bole

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Women and Chalk - Shipton Spire

Pakistan>Trango>Karakoram>Trango Towers>Shipton Spire

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The route line of Women and chalk on the East Face Shipton Spire (5850m), Trango, Pakistan

Fabio Dandri

Beauty

First ascent

Mauro Bubu Bole, Mario Cortese and Fabio Dandri 26/7 - 15/8/2001.

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Orientation

East

Length

29 pitches, 1150m high

Height

5700m

Difficulty

Route

New route opened 26/07/2001 - 15/08/2001 by Mauro ‘Bubu’ Bole on the East Face of Shipton Spire (5850 m), a spectacular granite tower in the Trango valley, Pakistan.
The three-man expedition consisted of Mauro Bole, his climbing partner Mario Cortese and the photographer/cameraman Fabio Dandri.

Access

Islamabad – Skardu - Thongul (bus + jeep) , the small village that acts as the starting point for all trekking in the Baltoro region. A 2 day trek leads to Paiyu, another day leads across a glacial moraine to Shipton Spire BC, a beautiful grassy triangle that manages to survive the onslaught of the glacier nearby.

Itinerary

Continuous and logical series of cracks and corners that take an obvious vertical line from the summit of Shipton Spire. 1150m long, it climbs the magnificent vertical and overhanging granite wall to the crest beneath the summit, where it joins up with the 1997 American "Nef des Fous".