President Evil - Rognon Vaudano
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Niccolò Bruni, Mountain Guide
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Niccolò Bruni
As with the other multipitch climbs on Rognon Vaudano, President Evil offers beautiful climbing on excellent grey, then red granite. Five pitches up to 7a, partially protected with bolts.
Reach Courmayeur and take the Skyway cable car to Punta Helbronner.
AccessThe approach is about 30-36 minutes from Punta Helbronner and the Torino mountain hut, following the trail that leads towards Aigille Marbrées, and then heading up towards the base of the peak. The climb is to the left of Cric e croc and to the right of Rise slow.
GPS coordinates Cric e Croc
DD: 45.859485, 6.943887
DMS: 45°51'34.1"N 6°56'38.0"E
UTM: 32T 340388 5080491
P1: 5c
P2: 6a+ (3 bolts)
P3: 6c (2 bolts)
P4: 6b (3 bolts)
P5: 7a (3 bolts)
Abseil down the route. The belays are equipped with chains & abseil rings.
Gear1 60m rope, 8 quickdraws, cams C4 from 0.2 - 3
NotesWe decided to call the wall Rognon Vaudano, in memory of Davide Vaudano, who unfortunately died on the Rutor glacier in August 2009. In 1993/1994 the mountain guide Rudy Buccella together with Davide and Roberto Romano, an aspiring guide who also unfortunately died more than twenty years ago, bolted two 4-pitch climbs on the far lefthand side of the face. Since 1993 the glacier has lowered by about 50/60 meters.
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