Moondance - Cima Uomo

From Tuenno, take the road leading to Lake Tovel as far as the Capriolo Restaurant, near which a forest track branches off to the right; follow this until you reach the access restriction. Just before this, there is a car park near the hairpin bend (9 km). NB: Free access to this dirt track is permitted only during the summer months when Malga Tuenna is open (approximately from early June to late September).

Follow the CAI path for 10 minutes to Malga Tuena. Continue along path #310 into Val Madris towards Passo di Pra Castron. Climb up this path until you reach the base of the yellow rocks of the southern pillars of Cima Uomo. After the final hairpin bend, follow the path a little further until it crosses a scree slope descending from a large gully. Head right up the steep grassy slope – red cairn – beneath the slab. Ignore the starting bolt for Mister Tandem; a little further to the left is a bolt with a sling and a thread. (1 hour) 

P1: Climb straight up a vertical slab. A small overhang with holds, then straight up for a few metres following some incredible red holds. Traverse right with a tricky move at the end of the pitch. 6a+, 30m

P2: A long and spectacular pitch. Aim for the obvious niche, then climb straight up, with a mandatory friction move, before ‘dancing’ across the slab with its pockets to the belay. 6c, 45m

P3: A pleasant transfer pitch. Climb straight up from the belay, then traverse left, passing beneath a small pillar, take care here. 5c, 20m

P4: Climb straight above the belay on vertical but featured rock (look at but do not touch the large flake above the belay), make a technical traverse to the right and reach the large flake, which you ascend via some physical and exhilarating layback moves up to the belay. 6b+, 40m

P5: Climb the small corber above the belay, move up to the right and then tackle a cryptic slab , first vertically then to the right. Enter the daunting and dark corner-chimney, which is overhanging but with plenty of holds (wet after periods of rain), to its end, where the route logbook is located. 6c, 40m

P6: Final easy pitch, to be climbed if opting to return via the path, III, 20m

Near the exit of the route, lies the splendid Palette path. Follow it to the left until it joins path #310, which, if followed to the left, leads back to the start of the route.

It is also possible and very convenient to abseil down:
1: from B5 to B4, 40m
2: from S4 to B2, 40m
3: from S2 to B1, 40m
4: from S1 to the ground, 25m

16 quickdraws, 80m rope.