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Spyros Kyriakou archive
Crème Brutalée on the northwest face of Astraka is a route with a strong alpine character. Much of the difficulty lies not only in the technical climbing but also in the mental aspect, due to the limited protection in some sections of the lower wall. The first half of the climb requires patience and careful gear placements on thin ice and mixed terrain, while the upper part becomes more flowing, offering enjoyable climbing on good alpine ice and an exposed ridge finish leading to the summit of Astraka.
The first 60 meters follow the same entry as the route Crème Caramelée, then it moves left to follow a natural line of alpine ice smears, mixed terrain and snow ramps leading to the summit ridge. Just before reaching this, it briefly joins the summer route Triestinon for a few meters, while the final exit to the summit ridge follows the line of Demokratia Couloir. The total length of the climb is about 550 meters, of which approximately 350 meters are on completely new terrain.
P1: (60m, AI2 M3)
The route follows the entry of the climb Crème Caramelée through a short corner, then moves left across easier terrain to reach the first belay on rock.
P2: (65m, AI5 M4+)
The first demanding pitch climbs a thin ice smear on a slab which continues into a short goulotte trending left before reaching a ramp below the next wall. Protection requires patience and careful placements, with delicate climbing on moderate-quality alpine ice.
P3: (60m, AI5 M4+)
The key pitch of the route. Starting from the left side of a large wall, the line traverses up and right across mixed terrain of rock, turf and intermittent ice. Protection is sparse and requires careful movement and composure. Easier terrain above leads to a short section of good alpine ice (AI3) ending at a cave belay.
P4: (AI3+ M3)
A short downclimb from the cave leads into a narrow couloir with excellent alpine ice conditions. Midway there is a short M3 step.
P5: (75m, AI3)
The route continues up the natural line of the couloir until the angle eases near a col.
P6: (M3)
Traverse right across the col and pass a small tower near the summer route Triestinon. A short mixed step leads onto the ridge.
P7: (110m)
Follow the corniced ridge carefully to the amphitheatre above the Demokratia couloir.
P8: (60m, AI2)
A final snow and ice gully leads to the summit ridge of Astraka.
Gear
Nuts, cams, several pitons.
NotesAstraka is one of the most impressive limestone peaks of the Tymfi massif, located in the Pindus mountain range in northwestern Greece. The north face of Astraka (2436m) rises above the Astraka refuge and forms a large alpine wall with some couloirs, mixed lines and ice smears that form during cold winters.
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