Crépe de Oucèra Alti, Italy, Veneto, Cortina d’Ampezzo

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Luca Zardini climbing at Crepe de Oucera

Roberto Casanova

Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

6a - 8a+

Height

1800 m

Link

www.scoiattoli.org

Rock type

Dolomite

Orientation

SSE

Rope

70 m rope

From a sports climbing point of view, the Crépe de Oucèra is one of the most important crags in the Cortina area and, together with the nearby Cinque Torri, to be considered one of the most important crags in the entire eastern Dolomites.Located at 1800m, the Crépe de Oucèra offers 70 pitches from 6a to 8a+. these are renowned for their beauty, ease of access and orientation, ensuring the crag's popularity not only in the hot summer months.

The rock is solid with plenty of small weathered pockets and flakes, offering a variety of different climbing styles up the smooth vertical, slightly overhanging and extremely overhanging walls.

Despite the fact that the crag is almost 20 years old, the bolting is excellent and the distance between the bolts varies, according to the difficulty and characteristics of each individual pitch.

A somewhat easier alternative to the Crépe de Oucèra Alta are the Crépe de Oucèra Bassi, located a few hairpin bends lower down. Immersed in the green forest, the Crépe de Oucèra Bassi offer 80 pitches from 5a to 6b.

Access

From Cortina take the highway SS48 westwards towards passo Falzarego and turn off left at the Pocol junction onto the SS638 towards Passo Giau. Continue for about 4km to reach a long straight section and the Alta Via 1 path. Park here and take the rightmost path up to the crag in just 5 minutes

Period

The Crépe are located between 1700 and 1800m. The crag faces SSE and is therefore ideal during spring, summer and autumn. Climbing is possible in winter if there is little snow.

Bibliography

Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo by Roberto Casanova, Cierre Edizioni

Crepe de Oucera - The crag Crepe de Oucera

Crepe de Oucera - Luca Zardini climbing at Crepe de Oucera

Crepe de Oucera - Ruggero Zardini climbing at Crepe de Oucera

See all photos

Sectors

Primo Settore

The “Primo settore” is the most popular sector, with the vast majority of pitches between 6a-6c. highly recommended are “Pikindolor” and “Latte acido”.

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Didò	8m	5
2	Momo	10m	5+
3	Gogo	10m	6a
4	Snorki	14m	6a+
5	White Line	14m	6b
6	Uomini gatto	15m	6b+
7	Klamera	16m	6c
8	Melassa	16m	6b+
9	P38	16m + 14m	6b+, 6b
10	Latte acido	20m + 18 + 12 + 8	6b+, 6b, 6a+, 6c
11	Variante di dx Latte acido	15m	6b+
12	Variante Lete destra	20m	6c
13	Variante Lete sinistra	12m	6c+
14	Variante Mente	12m	6c+
15	Fedora	22m	6a
16	Spitta e spera	20m	7a
17	Pikindolor	20m + 15+ 12+ 8	6c, 6b+, 6a, 6b+
18	Variante Delirio cosmico	16m	7a+
19	Profumo di donna	20m	6c+
20	Odore di sudore	20m	6c
21	Delirio cosmico	20m + 16 + 12 + 14	6a, 7c, 7b, 6c
22	Elettroshock	15m	7a
23	Cuba libre	26m	7b
24	Gin Fizz	31m	7b+
25	Petorada	32m	6c+

Settore Magica

The “Magica” sector takes its name after one of the most beautiful routes at the Crépe.

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Tequila gold	20m+15	7a+, 6c
2	Variante Tequila	20m	7a+/b
3	Lemon Wodka	20m	7b+
4	Whisky and Soda	18m	7a
5	Magica armonia	24m	7c
6	Schizofrenica follia	23m	7c+
7	Patapunfete	22m	7a
8	Fisiognomica	22m	8a+
9	Rebus	16m	7c
10	Spittaggio confuso	16m	6c
11	Cannonao d'alghero	18m	7a+

Settore Tetti

Athletic routes harder than 7b are to be found in the “Tetti” sector . After heavy rainfall this sector remains wet.

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Via dell'orto	18m	6c+
2	Oro	20m	7b
3	Incenso	20m	7b+
4	Birra	20m	6c+
5	Piccole canaglie	34m	NL
6	Babuska	22m	7b
7	Caraibi bic	22m	7c
8	Delta force	22m	7c
9	Resinata	24m	8a
10	SN	22m	7b+
11	Attibabao	26m	8a+
12	Urla nel silenzio	26m	7c+
13	Arcobaleno	24m	7c
14	Sorcio parlante	24m	7c
15	Diedro	16m	6c+
16	Polifemo	16m	7a+
17	Depressione	18m	7b
18	Serpente piumato	16m	n.l.

Ultimo Settore

“Ultimo settore” is the highest sector and divided into two sections. “Dita di burro” is highly recommended.

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Pappilion	18m	6b+
2	Scubidou	18m	6c
3	Macomber	20m	6b+
4	Mandrake	24m	7a
5	Viperone		NL
6	Polvere		NL
7	Dita di burro	24m	7c
8	Par condicio	22m	7b+
9	Ultima tentazione	18m	7b+
10	Wagon-lit	10m	7a+

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