Spigolo Giallo - Cima Piccola di Lavaredo
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Spigolo Giallo: Cima Piccola, Dolomites
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Emilio Comici, Mary Varale, Renato Zanutti, 1933
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
SE
Length
350m
Difficulty
6+
Obligatory difficulty
5+/A0
Route
Every year hundreds of climbers flock to the Spigolo Giallo. Few routes have such a perfect line, and few routes get quite so crowded. It is best climbed out of season and preferably avoided at the weekends. The difficult sections at the start and near the finish follow a beautiful line near the arête, whilst the less interesting middle section rises up to the right.
Getting there
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo. Access
From Rifugio Lavaredeo walk up the scree to the foot of the arête. To the left a ledge leads rightwards to the start beneath the corner. Descent
The route finishes slightly below the summit proper; scramble up to this and from the saddle abseil down the West Face. Resined abseil rings, less than 25m apart, lead down to the saddle that separates the Cima Piccola from the Cima Grande. Walk down the scree back to the start of the route. Gear
Take a full set of wires, friends, slings, kevlar threads and plenty of quickdraws.
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo. Access
From Rifugio Lavaredeo walk up the scree to the foot of the arête. To the left a ledge leads rightwards to the start beneath the corner. Descent
The route finishes slightly below the summit proper; scramble up to this and from the saddle abseil down the West Face. Resined abseil rings, less than 25m apart, lead down to the saddle that separates the Cima Piccola from the Cima Grande. Walk down the scree back to the start of the route. Gear
Take a full set of wires, friends, slings, kevlar threads and plenty of quickdraws.
Comments
10/09/2012 Renzo Bragantini
Salita tanti anni fa con mio fratello Salvatore (facevamo più o meno quarant'anni in due). La ricordo bellissima, incredibilmente aerea (ovvio, basta guardare lo spigolo dal basso). SI resta ammirati dall'intuito e dalle capacità di Comici. I primi due tiri, molto belli, erano già allora un po' consunti, figurarsi oggi. Stupendo il diedro in alto.
26/08/2009 Marco Gnaccarini
Ripetuta il 5 luglio 2008.Bellissima via, linea entusiasmante e aerea, roccia ottima.
Chiodata bene.
Un po' freddi i primi due tiri ma poi al sole è una bellezza scalare.
Complimentoni al grande Comici.
25/03/2008 Ruggero Dell'Oro Ivo Mozzanica
17 agosto 1969 poca esperienza... ma tanta forza e ardimento. Riguardo le dia e.. sicurezza a spalla...era cosi! Cose da brividi al giorno d'oggi. Il giorno dopo al rif Lavaredo (allora si chiamava Mazzetta) sull'uscio c'era un signore alto (Severino Casara), diceva che una cordata il giorno prima aveva scalato lo spigolo giallo salendo la verticalita originale di Comici, deviata poi nelle ripetizioni...ma..timidamente..eravamo noi,..ci strinse la mano chiedendoci di dove venivamo...da Lecco! AAAA e non aggiunse altro...
21/06/2007 jacopo compagnoni
gran via! da fare e da ripetere.giorno dopo fatto via tridentina (bonatti) sulle tofane, gran via anche questa, sarebbe da inserire nelle relazioni del sito! ciao buone scalate
Beauty
First ascent
Emilio Comici, Mary Varale, Renato Zanutti, 1933
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
SE
Length
350m
Difficulty
6+
Obligatory difficulty
5+/A0
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
