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Nebelgeist

First ascent: Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl 16/09/2020
By: Planetmountain.com
Area: North Tyrol Limestone Alps, Group: Wettersteingebirge, Peak: Schüsselkar - Söllerköpfe, Country: Austria, Region: Tyrol

Nebelgeist offers diverse, adventurous and alpine climbing, which requires experienced handling of trad gear. After the first ascent in summer 2020 with Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl explained 'We left all belays in-situ, as well as the only piton we placed to protect a section on pitch 7. The entire route needs protecting and the grade is absolutely mandatory on every pitch, as the pro is often poor and tricky to place, especially on pitches 7 and 8. The crux pitch (pitch 8) has a run-out over dodgy gear, with a belay that needs to be upgraded (#3 Friend and small offset nuts recommended). Falling here might be dangerous. '

GETTING THERE

From the parking of Chinamauer, follow the approach to Schüsselkar (Puittal), until you reach a zone of mountain pines. Turn right after them and ascend to the base oft he wall through pathless terrain (the same ascent as fort he route 'Skywalkers' or 'El Circo Caliente').

ROUTE

P1: 50m, IV-
P2: 55m, V-
P3: 60m, IV+
P4: 25m, VII-
P5: 25m, VII-
P6: 30m, VI-
P7: 30m, VII
P8: 35m, VII+
P9: 100m, IV

DESCENT

Rappel the route (50 m abseils)

GEAR

Carry a full set of cams up to size 3 (BD), a hammer and a selection of pitons and nuts, some cord to upgrade the abseils is recommended

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