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Via Giopia

First ascent: Paolo Calzà, Lino Celva, Mauro Giovanazzi 11/1990
By: Paolo Calzà
Area: Brescia and Garda pre-Alps, Group: Valle del Sarca, Peak: Monte Brione, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Beautiful aid climb up the NW Face of Monte Brione, close to Arco between Riva and Torbole. The route was rebolted in November 2013 by Paolo Calzà and Danny Zampiccoli.

GETTING THERE

Park at "La Grotta", the small village in the municipality of Arco close to Riva del Garda.

ACCESS

Walk up the hill along a barely recognisable track towards the roof and the base of the route. Bolts clearly visible.

ROUTE

P1: Climb the most friable section of the route, 10m A1, then continue up diagonal slabs rightwards to the belay below the first roof, 5b.
P2: Climb the first roof to the right and at its end ascend leftwards to the belay, 5c.
P3: Follow the obvious line of bots to the belay, A1.
P4: From the belay below the second roof breach the 12m attic  and continue diagonally along the lip to the belay, A1.
P5: Ascend diagonally left, then up the compact grey face, past the steep step, to exit on the right, in an Austrian First World War trench

DESCENT

Either make two abseils, the long one is 60m. Or descend on foot from the summit, heading south to join the path that leads to the village San Alessandro and then continue north along the road to reach La Grotta.

GEAR

One partner, if not two, 2 half ropes, 10 quickdraws, 2 aiders and...

NOTES

"Via Giopia" is dedicated to a mother. Rebolted in November 2013.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

6a/A1

FACE

NW

LENGTH

115m

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