Welcome to Tijuana
By: Francesco Salvaterra
Area: Brescia and Garda pre-Alps, Group: Valle del Sarca, Peak: Gola del Limarò, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige
This new route in the Gola del Limarò, unlike the previous ones, is a sport climb and offers beautiful and technical climbing up the “dominant” line of this compact face. What renders this climbing unique though is something else: while there are countless superb limestone climbs in the Arco area, the base of the canyon and its games of light render this something truly unique.
The route is located in the river Sarca canyon, a few hunderd metres above the start of Diedro Maestri. From Sarche drive up the hairpin bends towards Ponte Arche, after the first tunnel park on the right close to the cycle path, walk down this towards Sarche for circa 200m, after a gravel track that comes in from the right there's a SAT signpost. From here descend into the woods, following the poorly marked trail. Keep in the middle of the valley for a few hundred metres, just before reaching the edge of a rock face that looks out onto the river keep left (cairn marker) and follow the path. This becomes more obvious and also more exposed (if in doubt keep low). The final section is exposed (beware) and leads to the river bed. Continue downriver until River Sarca bars the way. Take off your shoes, wade through the river (water reaches just above knee-height) to reach the yellow bolts.
From the car to the base of the route in circa 20 minutes.
P1: 6c+, 45m Difficult start, followed by easier climbing that leads to the crux section at the last two bolts.
P2: 6c, 40m Traverse; difficult start and finish
P3: 6a, 30m Classic crack pitch, pumpy but with good holds
P4: 7a, 25 Pumpy traverse, boulder crux start
P5: 5a, 40m Pitch that leads to the line of descent, easy but at times friable (take care!). At the end of the blue rope downclimb 1m and traverse.
Abseil down an independent line (abseiling down the route is possible after pitch 1 but difficult and not recommended). A single 70m rope is ideal, with a 60m rope it's possible but you need to be extremely careful as you only just make it (make sue to use a prussik and tie knots at the end of the ropes).
1. From the belay of pitch 5 (bolt + nearby tree) abseil off the tree immediately above (yellow sling), diagonally left (facing out) to a large oak tree located above thr drop, sling.
2. 30m abseil into the void to the bolted belay
3. 20m abseil to bolted belay
4. 30m abseil. Return via the access path
70m single rope, 10 quickdraws
In summer the face remains in the shade until midday; the ideal thing to do is reach the base at 9 or 10, place a couple of beers in the river, repeat the route, abseil off, have a refreshing dip and celebrate with the cool beers.
COMMENTS for the route "Welcome to Tijuana"
03-08-2014, Gianni Canale
Ieri sabato 02 agosto, io e il mio compagno Aldo Mazzotti, siamo andati a ripetere la bellissima via di Francesco e Nicola nella incantevole Gola del Limaro. Complimentandoci con gli apritori abbiamo saputo che era anche la prima ripetizione, inoltre è riuscita anche on sight!!!
Siamo contenti di essere stati i primi, è una via che merita di essere ripetuta, per la linea, la roccia e anche per il posto magico.. il nome calza a pennello!! Peccato sia solo 5 tiri!!!
A mio parere i gradi sono perfetti cosi come la descrizione, solo un piccolo dettaglio poco significativo.. nella descrizione dell'accesso dal cartello sat se si prosegue ancora 40 m lungo la ciclabile sulla curva appena prima della staccionata parte il sentiero perfetto ed è segnato con dei bolli rossi sulle piante.GianniCanale