Oro e carbone - Mur del Pissadu'
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Oro e carbone
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Francesco Piardi, Francesco Tremolada 1998
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
N
Length
400m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6c
Route
This is a highly rewarding climb up excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead. The route takes the center line up the Mur del Pissadù, a large yellow and black wall. Most of the 10 pitches are solid 6b/c, and there are two 7a pitches.
Getting there
The Sella group is surrounded by four passes: Pordoi, Campolongo, Gardena and Sella. Leave the car at the Via ferrata Tridentina parking lot a few hairpin bends below Passo Gardena in the direction of Corvara. Access
Approach by starting up the Val Setus before turning off left up a track for the via ferrata Tridentina. Before reaching two obvious boulders walk steeply up the scree to the Torre, heading towards the large corner in the center of the face. Oro e carbone starts on top of a small buttress, at the base of a yellow streak a few hundred meters to the right of Ottovolante. Descent
From the summit scramble quickly to the Sella plateau, then walk southwards to reach the path that leads to the rifugio Pissadù. Before reaching the rifugio, turn right down the Val Setus to the car. Gear
12 quickdraws, some small wires, Camalot N° 1 and some small Metolius (1-2-3).
The Sella group is surrounded by four passes: Pordoi, Campolongo, Gardena and Sella. Leave the car at the Via ferrata Tridentina parking lot a few hairpin bends below Passo Gardena in the direction of Corvara. Access
Approach by starting up the Val Setus before turning off left up a track for the via ferrata Tridentina. Before reaching two obvious boulders walk steeply up the scree to the Torre, heading towards the large corner in the center of the face. Oro e carbone starts on top of a small buttress, at the base of a yellow streak a few hundred meters to the right of Ottovolante. Descent
From the summit scramble quickly to the Sella plateau, then walk southwards to reach the path that leads to the rifugio Pissadù. Before reaching the rifugio, turn right down the Val Setus to the car. Gear
12 quickdraws, some small wires, Camalot N° 1 and some small Metolius (1-2-3).
Comments
12/08/2013 ivan antonucci
12/08/2013 ivan antonucci
3-08-2013 Ivan Antonucci
dopo molti giorni di sole e una temperatura a nord prossima ai 20 gradi, abbiamo trovato i primi tiri della via, specialmodo il secondo e il quarto fradici; al quarto tiro abbiamo abbinato la sezione chiave di oro e carbone, con la lunghezza di 6C di anton aus tirol e ne è uscita una lunghezza superlativa; quello che mi domando, ma qualcuno l'ha mai vista asciutta completamente questa via; saluti a tutti e andate a rpeterla tanto mal che vada deviate su Anton Aus Tirol; (dimenticavo i tiri duri sono gli ultimi dove le protezioni diventano allegre, nei primi 7 tiri protezioni ottime e non è necessario integrare.
12/09/2011 Swen Harald
Great climbing. 5 stars. I liked it a lot more then Ottovolante. The rock is steeper and the climbing more sustained. Must do route.
11/08/2010 kunig
Great route on very solid rock. One of the best pitches for us was number 8! But there is no bad pitch in the whole route! We saw a new bolted line on the left side (about 10m left) from "Oro e carbone". Does somebody has details to this route?? It looks great!
Beauty
First ascent
Francesco Piardi, Francesco Tremolada 1998
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
N
Length
400m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6c
Route
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