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Via Elia

First ascent: Florian Grossrubatscher, Armin Senoner, autumn 2017
By: Florian Grossrubatscher
Area: Dolomites, Group: Puez-Odle, Peak: Steviola, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Via Elia breaches the SW Face of Steviola, high above the village Selva di Val Gardena, with nine pitches of sustained climbing. The route is protected with 10mm bolts.

GETTING THERE

Reach Selva di Val Gardena and follow signs for Vallunga. Park at the car park (payment in summer and winter). The rock face is clearly visibile from here

ACCESS

Walk along path “via crucis- Kreuzweg”, at the fork follow signs for “Castel Wolkenstein”. Shortly before reaching the castle head left uo tracks to below the face and the obvious corner. The route starts on the slab to the right of the corner. 20 minutes.

ROUTE

P1: 6a+, 45 m
P2: 7a, 30 m
P3: 6c+, 30 m
P4: 6c, 26 m
P5: 6c, 27 m
P6: 6b+, 45 m
P7: 6c, 35 m
P8: 7a+, 32 m
P9: 6b+, 32 m

DESCENT

From the last belay walk up the grassy slope to the top of the Steviola and then follow a path that leads, past a grade III scramble down, to the Palota path the takes you to the car park in 45 minutes.
Alternatively, it is possible to descend from the middle ledge by abseil down the abseil piste (first 30m rappel to the left of the belay on the ledge, see topo). Note: it you climb above the ledge it is best to descend on foot.

GEAR

1 x 50 m rope, 14 helmet. A 60m rope if necessary if you want to descend by abseiling down the route.

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BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7a+

FACE

SW

LENGTH

300 m

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Via Elia

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