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Traumschiff

First ascent: Simon Demetz, Karl Vinatzer 1986
By: Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: Traumpfeiler, Cansla, Meisules dla Biesces, Height: 2000m, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Traumschiff is a strong contender for one of the best short multi-pitch sport climbs in Dolomites! Magnificent slab climbing, far less polished then its famous neighbour Traumpfeiler, leads all the way to the top of the pillar. The climbing is demanding and reminiscent of the most famous routes in the Verdon (such as Ange en Decomposition)... great rock and very technical moves, ideal for those who love the '80's climbing style.

GETTING THERE

Take the A22 motorway and exit at Bolzano Nord. Follow signs to Val Gardena, and on to the Gardena and Sella pass. At the fork continue up to the Sella pass for 200m and park on the left in the large car park. From here continue on foot to the wall in just 10 minutes.

ROUTE

P1: Strapiombetto tecnico 6c
P2: Ultimi metri difficili 6c+
P3: Verso dx. Tiro di movimento tecnico 6c (var. su spit dritti 7a)
P4: Passo tecnico a metà 6c+
P5:  Passo tecnico difficile a metà 7a
P6: Tecnico di movimento 6c

DESCENT

Abseil down the route

GEAR

11 quickdraws and a 60m rope suffice

NOTES

Cansla is situated at 2000 m and climbing is possible in summer only. The wall faces southwest and receives the early-afternoon sun. It dries quickly even after heavy rainstorms.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b+

FACE

SW

LENGTH

150m

LINK

www.albertodegiuli.com

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