Traumschiff - Traumpfeiler, Cansla, Mëisules dala Biesces
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Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
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Planetmountain
Traumschiff is a strong contender for one of the best short multi-pitch sport climbs in Dolomites! Magnificent slab climbing, far less polished then its famous neighbour Traumpfeiler, leads all the way to the top of the pillar. The climbing is demanding and reminiscent of the most famous routes in the Verdon (such as Ange en Decomposition)... great rock and very technical moves, ideal for those who love the '80's climbing style.
Take the A22 motorway and exit at Bolzano Nord. Follow signs to Val Gardena, and on to the Gardena and Sella pass. At the fork continue up to the Sella pass for 200m and park on the left in the large car park. From here continue on foot to the wall in just 10 minutes.
ItineraryP1: Strapiombetto tecnico 6c
P2: Ultimi metri difficili 6c+
P3: Verso dx. Tiro di movimento tecnico 6c (var. su spit dritti 7a)
P4: Passo tecnico a metà 6c+
P5: Passo tecnico difficile a metà 7a
P6: Tecnico di movimento 6c
Abseil down the route
Gear11 quickdraws and a 60m rope suffice
NotesCansla is situated at 2000 m and climbing is possible in summer only. The wall faces southwest and receives the early-afternoon sun. It dries quickly even after heavy rainstorms.
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