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Grotta di Pian - Val Duron

First ascent: Various
By: Tommaso Cardelli
Area: Dolomites, Group: Valle di Fassa, Peak: Val Duron, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

The Grotta di Pian was bolted by Mario Prinoth and Renato Bernard, with the help of other local climbers. It is is an ideal training venue for bigger climbs in the mountains and to learn the subtleties of "dry-tooling". The routes are fully equipped, the sun is guaranteed all day long and cave is located in relaxing and beautiful surroundings. Thanks to the huge variety of routes on offer the cave is ideal for both beginners and experts. Take particular care when judging the solidity of the central drip, above all on warm days! A helmet is obligatory!


Campitello di Fassa. From Campitello di Fassa (Tn) drive to the entrance of Val Duron and park the car.


Walk 50m along the road which leads into Valle Duron to reach the water board building. From here follow the path to the right of the building and reach the forest road, close to a bridge, which leads down from Pian. Continue coasting the river to reach the cave (15 minutes).


Routes (from below, before reaching the cave):  
Senza nome:
D4. Easy slab
Yaniroquay: D6. Series of pumpy roofs
Night event: WI 5/M 30m.  New drip which was first ascended during a pre-Christmas party... Very beautiful! The route follows an almost continuous line of ice, but is bolt protected.
Attraverso Pian: D8. great traverse, constantly overhanging!
For Wirpke: D7+. Technical start, followed by pumpy finish.
Ospiti: D7. Excellent warm-up.
Senza nome: P1 D7, P2 D9. A technical start is followed by a pumpy roof
Albertina: M11+. Beautiful pitch which crosses the entire cave to reach the hanging drip
Per la Madonna: M10. A absolute must!!
Marlene: D9. Nice little pitch up the side of the cave...
Iris: D5+. Beautiful slab


Full ice climbing rack. 60m rope, 10 quickdraws, some ice screws. A helmet is obligatory!


Take particular care when judging the solidity of the central drip, above all on warm days! A helmet is obligatory!

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