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Compagni dai campi e dalle officine

First ascent: Roberto Iannilli, Luca D’Andrea (swinging leads), after two attempts with Massimo Massimiano. Climbed on 29 & 30 August biw-wall style with one bivy.
By: Roberto Iannilli
Area: Central Apennines, Group: Gran Sasso, Peak: Gran Sasso, Corno Grande, vetta Occidentale, Country: Italy, Region: Abruzzo

The route breaches the smooth central slabs with some sustained aid (the third pitch is currently the hardest of its kind in this mountain chain). Plan for a bivy (a good site is the 4th belay at the large ledge). The rock is fairly good but friable in places.


From Campo Imperatore (Aq), which can be reached by cable car (currently still being checked after the earthquake) or by car, follow the beautiful road which leads from Fonte Cerreto, past the observatory and continue up the path to the Monte Aquila col. From here continue along the grassy crest towards Corno Grande, to the left of Campo Pericoli and to the right of Campo Imperatore, to reach the Ferrata del bivacco Bafile which heads off right after the large boulder called Sassone. Although not difficult, the ferrata is exposed and this traverses to reach the large bulge beneath the face (attention: proper gear necessary). Calculate 1.5 hours – 2 hours, while the bivy is 30 minutes further on.


Start in the centre of the wall, to the right of Diretta Consiglio, directly below the diagonal crack which, even though broken, traverses the base of the face from left to right, from the start of Diretta Consiglio to the roof on the third pitch of Isola non trovata/Vento dell’ est

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