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Opus Pocus

First ascent: Tiziano Buccella, Geremia Vergoni, 07/2007. First free ascent: 23/07/2009
By: Geremia Vergoni
Area: Dolomites, Group: Marmolada, Peak: Piz Seràuta, Height: 3035m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

Opus Pocus on Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada is a hybrid route with a series of pitches which differ completely from one another. The first pitch for example is a classic mountain pitch on good rock which needs trad pro, worlds apart from the third pitch which is bolted otherwise unprotectable, with different difficulties altogether.

We felt this to be the correct choice and we attempted to respect the characteristics of the face as much as possible, using routes on Mont Blanc by Motto & Piola which are protected in this style as an example.

I believe the route is interesting thanks to the beauty of the rock and the individual pitches. It isn't particularly long like the rest of the routes on the Marmolada, but 200m is enough to have fun, perhaps a bit minimalist.

To climb the route successfully you need to be not only a strong climber, you also need to be skillful at placing natural pro. The route was first ascended from the ground up.


Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela.


From Malga Ciapela 2 hours. Deatiled access to the Serauta can be found in the guidebook. The route takes a line on the obvious pillar to the left of the 1942 route Pisoni - Castiglioni.


Abseil down the route


Kevlar for the threads, 12 quickdraws including some long ones to reduce rope drag on the second pitch, mid-large camming devices plus one small one for the start on pitch 1.
In-situ gear: stainless steel bolts and abseil rings on the belays, some pegs.


Given the difficult access to this section of the Marmolada we recommend you go only in stable weather as a descent in the rain may prove dangerous. It may be worth waiting out storms in the cave at the base of the wall (take warm clothes).

The first ascentionists would iike to call the pillar they first climbed Pilastro Bruno.


Marmolada, Parete Sud di Maurizio Giordani, Versante Sud

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COMMENTS for the route "Opus Pocus"

22-11-2010, Manuel Feller
grande Tato! devessere una gran bella via!
06-08-2010, Rolando Larcher
Bella ed impegnativa via, confermo l'obbligatorio. Provati solo i primi 3 tiri,il 2° superato a vista. Gradi severi, proporrei 8a per il 2° e 8a+ per il 3°. Una serie completa di kamalot fino al 3 Accesso delicato, scabroso se cambia il tempo. Complimenti a Tiziano e Geremia per l'ottima apertura.
09-12-2009, maurizio illuminati
linea fantastica ma quanti lo ripeteranno? sono dell'idea gradi inferiori e niente spit soprattutto in quantità
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