Nago - Arco
Perched high above the picturesque hamlet of Nago and nestled deep into the gentle slopes of Mount Baldo lies a long sliver of compact limestone: a near perfect crag, doubtlessly one of the most beautiful and interesting in the entire Arco area.
Nago hosts almost 120 routes from 4c to 7c; all are long and technical and climb the steep vertical limestone slabs: stamina for the small crimps, and technique for the Verdon-like shallow pockets and runnels, are key to success. Most routes are graded 6a - 6c and this, coupled with the excellent bolting, easy access, south-facing orientation and splendid view over Lake Garda, render Nago extremely popular. At times unfortunately excessively so but, if need be, the routes in the upper sectors are usually less crowded.
Reach Nago along the highway SS240, turn off this main road by the roundabout and petrol station and drive through the old town, following signs for Monte Baldo. Once out of the village turn off left (following signs for Rampicata) to reach the car park at the foot of the crag. From here continue on foot up the obvious path to the crag (10 mins). Alternatively, continue up the road following signs for Monte Baldo to the hairpin bend. Park the car here and follow the path down from the curve to the crag. Beware: thieves operate in this area. Do not leave any valuables in the car. This land is privately owned - please be a respectful as possible.
Technical stamina climbing; crimps, shallow pockets and runnels.
Total number of routes:4: 65: 186a: 196b: 196c: 157a: 207b: 157c: 5
8c + : 8
The crag receives the brunt of the Ora wind (in the afternoon in summer and in the morning in winter), making this crag the fastest to dry after extended periods of rain. Mount Baldo is also known as the "Garden of Europe" for it's botanical richness.
Best of Arco
...Sportclimbing Guide: Arco, Valle del Sarca, Valli Giudicarie, Trento, Rovereto
Autore: Manuel Senettin, Thomas Hofer
106 crags – Valle del Sarca, Trento, Rovereto, Valli Giudicarie
Mauro Manica, Antonella Cicogna, Davide Negretti by Versante Sud
Arco Arrampicate dal Lago di Garda al Brenta
by Michael Meisl, Martin Lochner