Iain Miller
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Rock climbing on Gola Island, Ireland. This island is one of the epicentre of the Donegal climbing scene with well over 200 single pitch routes from Diff to E5 on the pristine granite sea cliffs and inland outcrops scattered throughout the island.
Iain Miller archive
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
Diff - E5
Routes number
200+
Rock type
Granite


The County of Donegal in the North-West of Ireland contains more climbable rock than the rest of Ireland combined boasting two major Irish mountain ranges, over a thousand kilometres of coastline, one hundred sea stacks and as many diverse climbing mediums and locations as you will find in the rest of Ireland combined. Donegal currently plays host to several lifetimes worth of world class rock climbing in many of the most beautiful, remote and unspoilt locations in Ireland.

Living just off the coast of western Donegal is Gola Island. This island is one of the epicentre of the Donegal climbing scene with well over 200 single pitch routes from Diff to E5 on the pristine granite sea cliffs and inland outcrops scattered throughout the island. In the main, the rock is immaculate sea-washed granite with only some of the more sheltered zawns containing sections of loose and crumbly leached rock. As a general rule, the best of the climbing on Gola Island is in the VS to E2 (5.8 to 5.11 USA or 5c to 6b French) grade range.

What Gola Island provides is outstanding sea cliff climbing in a wild, remote and truly beautiful setting. The island sits far out in County Donegal's rainshadow and it is not unusual to be climbing on the island in bright sunshine and blue skies whilst the rest of the county is under a deluge of heavy rain.

Gola Island Rock Climbing History The potential on Gola Island was discovered in the eighties but it took another decade before the island took centre stage inspired by an Irish Mountain Log article by Alan Tees. In the five years that followed several hundred routes were recorded on its sea-washed granite walls.In 2011 Stephen Read discovered and developed Easter Wall, giving Gola a second inland crag. Current development on Gola is a slow steady stream of harder quality lines from visiting climbers. Gola is a popular venue with university groups and climbing clubs.

Bad Weather Alas the west coast of Ireland is quite prone to wet and grim weather. A much easier island to access, which does not require the use of a ferry service, kayaking or camping, is Cruit Island. Cruit Island offers the same excellent granite sea cliff climbing (on slightly lower sea cliffs) and is better sheltered from big sea swells than most of the crags on Gola Island.

Access

The daily Gola ferry service is run by Sabba Curran (+353 (0) 872245881) and as the Gola pier is tidal it is always best to give him a call to book a sailing prior to leaving home.

Logistics

By far the best place to stay on the island is to wild camp between the Loch and the sandy beach at the head of the huge sea inlet on the western side of the island, this campsite allows an easy 10-minute walk to all the islands climbing locations and provides an outstanding place to wake up on a summer’s morning. There are of course several houses available to rent through the main renting sites and this will be blessing if the midgies are out on the island during your stay.

Notes

For all info and the guidebook check out: https://uniqueascent.ie




Sectors

Twin Cave Buttress Area
The rock climbs
Nessuna via presente
Main Walls Left
The rock climbs
Nessuna via presente
Main Walls Right
The rock climbs
Nessuna via presente
Narrow Zawn
The rock climbs
Nessuna via presente
Binatoke SW Wall
The rock climbs
Nessuna via presente





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
Diff - E5
Routes number
200+
Rock type
Granite


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