Lumignano Brojon

Italy>Veneto>Vicenza>Lumignano
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Monte Brojon, Lumignano.
Nicholas Hobley
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 8b
Height
80
Routes number
61
Rock type
Superb quality pocketed limestone.
Rope
70m


Lumignano used to be one of the most famous crags in Italy. Times have changed, but this crag still has a lot to offer. One of its most recent additions is Monte Brojon: divided into four very different sectors and with over 50 routes to choose from, it is proving to be extremely popular. "Brojon classico" has many easy routes and faces SW, while the overhanging "strapiombi" are ideal for those who love short, powerful testpieces.

Access

Lumignano lies a few kilometers south of Vicenza. From Vicenza follow the highway SS247 (signposted Este), which runs alongside the Colli Berici. Turn right for Costozza and Lumignano immediately after Longare: Monte Brojon and other crags come into view shortly after the first of these two villages. To get to Monte Brojon park the car before the church, walk up some steps and continue along the well-marked path (Eremo) which leads to the hermitage. Do not turn left up to the hermitage. Instead, keep right, cross the small stream and continue uphill to the crag. Alternatively, park on the main road and walk up Via Brojo past the houses directly to the "Strapiombi" sector. Use the map provided for further reference.

Logistics

Lumignano is a small village with only a few bars and one small supermarket. The new meeting point for climbers, walkers and cyclists is "La Casa dei Lumi". This also offers accommodation: www.lacasadeilumi.com Other accommodation: B&B Brojo Hill, www.brojohill.com. The nearest campsite is in Vicenza: Campeggio Vicenza, tel. 0444/582311, Strada Pelosa 239. Other bars: "Ca’ d’oro" and bar "Fantasy".

Period

Spring and autumn, although it is also possible to find perfect climbing conditions during sunny, winter days. The crag faces SE or SW, depending on the various sectors.

Climb

The climbing varies greatly from one sector to the next. The routes in sector "Strapiombi" are short, powerful and intense on large holds. The near horizontal roof below is even shorter and harder . The routes in sector "Pilastro" are much longer and vertical, while in "Brojon classico" the angle of the crag eases and so do the grades of the routes.

Bibliography

"Lumignano, arrampicate nei Monti Berici" by Michele Guerrini and Andrea Minetto, Editore Antersass




Sectors

Strapiombi
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Frush Fred 8a+
1 Tosva 8a+/8b
2 Il toro di Pianiga 8a+
3 Indigo 7b
4 Mister Rawalpindi 7b
5 Bravo 8a
6 La Grotta 8a
7 Re Artù 7c+
8 Jungle Pockets 8b+
9 Il Falco 8b
10 Nessun dorma 7c
11 Il richiamo del Poldo 7c+
12 Lord Karrington 7c+
13 Ramassage scolaire 7b+
14 U' pesantone 7a
15 Il Joker 6c+
Sotto gli strapiombi
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
15 Rivoluzione 9a
prima libera: Mauro Dell'Antonia 05/2017
16 Jazz ?
17 Metamorfosi 8a/b
18 Maionese 7b
19 L'orso 7b+
20 L'Emiliano 7b+
Pilastro
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Sipario 6c
2 Orizzonti evanescenti 7b
3 Ultimi orizzonti 7b
4 Angoscia 7a
5 L'araba fenice 6c+
6 Coreografia 7a
Brojon Classico
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Danze di muse erranti 6a+
2 La quadratura del cerchio 5+
3 La sfera e il labirintio 6a+
4 Gna omo 6a
5 Tom e Jerri 6a
6 Triginon 5+
7 Paturnie uterine 6a+
8 Luxuria 6b
9 Empiereo emozionale 6b+
10 Movida 5+
11 Entiria 4
12 Insomnia 4+
13 Il muro di Jerico 6c
14 La fatica di Sisifo 6c+
15 ? 7a
16 ? 7a+
17 La colonna infame 7b
18 La caduta degli dei 6b+
19 Il pianto di Andromaca 6a+
20 Sogni morbosi 6b+
21 Astrazione empatica 6a
22 Divina follia 6b
23 Paranoia psichedelica 6b
24 Incubi metafisici 6b+
25 Urla nel silenzio 6c
26 Bei tempi 6b
27 Canto notturno 6c
28 Bustomania 5+
29 Dissoluzione entropica 6b
30 Voglie di doglie 6b+
31 Acid tendency 6a
32 Ciri 5+
33 Come una cometa 6a+
34 Valium 5+





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 8b
Height
80
Routes number
61
Rock type
Superb quality pocketed limestone.
Rope
70m


Position



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