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Saxofon

First ascent: Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayer 05/12/2019
By: Daniel Ladurner
Area: Dolomites, Group: Val Gardena-Vallunga, Peak: Langental, Country: Italy

Ice climb located above the classic Piovra.

The climbing on the mixed section is short but athletic past good quality rock, but it takes a good dose of courage to climb the drip after the last peg until you manage to place a good ice screw. And of course, the La Piovra icefall which has to be climbed first cannot be underestimated by any means.

GETTING THERE

Coming from the south, exit the A22 motorway after Bolzano at Val Gardena. Drive up the beautiful valley, passing Ortisei, Santa Cristina and Selva di Val Gardena. At a junction, follow signs for Vallunga and after a few kilometers the road ends near the start of the cross country piste; follow this into the valley.

ACCESS

From the car park take path n. 14; continue through the valley to reach the pleateau Pra da Rí. From here scramble up to the right up what in summer is a scree slope. La Piovra, Teufelsgeige and Saxofon icefalls are clearly visible from the valley. BEWARE: The slope leading to the ice falls avalanche prone, only ascend this if completely safe. 2 hours circa
Climb the classic La Piovra or Teufelsgeige icefalls to the large ledge, then traverse 120m (or 100m if you have climbed Teufelsgeige) to the base of the obvious drip. From the second bolt belay on the left branch of La Piovra climb a few meters of ice to reach the large ledge, and traverse 60m to reach the Teufelsgeige belay on the large boulder. From here traverse another 60m or so to reach the base of Saxofon.

DESCENT

Abseil from the last belay to the ledge, then another two abseils down La Piovra or Teufelsgeige.

NOTES

7 rock pegs in situ. 2 for each belay and 3 on the pitch.

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DIFFICULTY

WI5 M7

LENGTH

40m

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