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Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall

First ascent: Manuel Baumgartner, Martin Baumgartner 30/12/2015
By: Manuel Baumgartner
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: Mur del Pisciadù, Country: Italy

The entire route offers varied climbing in a marvelous setting, but should not be underestimated by any means.


The Sella group is surrounded by four passes: Pordoi, Campolongo, Gardena and Sella. Leave the car at the Via ferrata Tridentina parking lot a few hairpin bends below Passo Gardena in the direction of Corvara.


Approach by starting up the Val Setus before turning off left up a track for the via ferrata Tridentina. Before reaching two obvious boulders walk steeply up the scree to the Torre, heading towards the large corner in the center of the face. Oro e carbone starts on top of a small buttress, at the base of a yellow streak a few hundred meters to the right of Ottovolante. The icefall starts circa 20m left of Oro e Carbone. Allow 25 minutes for the walk-in.


The route follows the first four pitches of Schwarze Wand Führe, a rarely repeated summer route established in 1967 by Heinz Steinkötter and Vitti Frismon. We used our ice axes right from the outset, climbing past M5 difficulties and old pegs that need to be treated with caution. Pitch 2 climbs slightly rightwards for 30m up perfect black rock. There are some old pegs on this pitch, too, but you can also place good gear. Pitch 3 is a mix of rock and ice, past V/M5 difficulties. The crux rock section is located on pitch 4, which follows a crack to reach a small roof: grade VI+ climbing leads to a small icy drip and then the belay. Pitch 5 leads left past easy rock below the hanging drip, before traversing back onto the ice. The short rock section is protected with threads and Friends, and it is at this point that we abandoned the Schwarze Wand Führe.

The icefall proper is a real delight, and the difficulties from start to finish are in the region of WI6.


Two abseils down the route.


Friends to #2, trad rack, pegs and hammer, full ice climbing rack, and rock climbing shoes depending on conditions.

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