Valeria - Crozzon di Brenta
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Gianni Canale
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Valeria
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Gianni Canale e Aldo Mazzotti, 6-7/01/2013
By
Gianni Canale
Orientation
West
Length
270m
Difficulty
VI ice, M6, VI+ rock
Route
Beautiful 270m ice climb up the West Face of Crozzon di Brenta, first climbed by Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti in January2013, and dedicated to Valeria Brunelli who died in the night between 8 and 9 October 2012, buried by rockfall while bivying at the base of the of the enchanting Vedretta of Camosci.
Getting there
From Sant'Antonio di Mavignola drive up into Val Brenta, park close to the forestry comission's tree nursery and continue up the summer path to Malga Brenta Alta. From here head right tot he obvious gully (the one on the left) which leads to a plateau below the imposing Crozzon di Brenta arete. The elegant an obvious line of Valeria is clearly visible from here. 3:30 - 4 hours with skis from the car. Itinerary
P1: V, 60m
P2: V+, 40m
P3: VI- (M4+), 55m
P4: V, 45m,
P5: VI-, VI + o M6, 50m
P6: V+, 20m Descent
Abseil down the route Gear
2 x 60m ropes, 1 set of camming devices 0.5- 3 BD, 6 icescrews, pegs and hammer Notes
Belays equipeed with 2 bolts. All gear used left in-situ. On pitch 5 the second peg is poor but I failed to remove it, a better one is placed circa 40cm to the left.
From Sant'Antonio di Mavignola drive up into Val Brenta, park close to the forestry comission's tree nursery and continue up the summer path to Malga Brenta Alta. From here head right tot he obvious gully (the one on the left) which leads to a plateau below the imposing Crozzon di Brenta arete. The elegant an obvious line of Valeria is clearly visible from here. 3:30 - 4 hours with skis from the car. Itinerary
P1: V, 60m
P2: V+, 40m
P3: VI- (M4+), 55m
P4: V, 45m,
P5: VI-, VI + o M6, 50m
P6: V+, 20m Descent
Abseil down the route Gear
2 x 60m ropes, 1 set of camming devices 0.5- 3 BD, 6 icescrews, pegs and hammer Notes
Belays equipeed with 2 bolts. All gear used left in-situ. On pitch 5 the second peg is poor but I failed to remove it, a better one is placed circa 40cm to the left.
See all photos
Comments
22/02/2013 Claudio Migliorini
Semplicemente eccezionale!! Salita il 09 febbraio con Francesco Rubbiani, concatenatandola a "Donne e Ramponi..." Complimenti e grazie agli apritori!
22/02/2013 Claudio Migliorini
Semplicemente eccezionale!! Salita il 09 febbraio con Francesco Rubbiani, concatenatandola a "Donne e Ramponi..." Complimenti e grazie agli apritori!
02/02/2013 Francesco Salvaterra
Salita ven 1 febbraio con Paolo Baroldi, una vera perla unica nel suo genere per la varietà dei passaggi e la location di primordine. Complimenti a Gianni e Aldo per aver "colto l'attimo"!
15/01/2013 Planetmountain
Prima ripetizione di Giorgio Bertagnolli e Cristian Defant il 12/01/2013 http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=40511
First repeat by Giorgio Bertagnolli e Cristian Defant il 12/01/2013 on http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40512
Beauty
First ascent
Gianni Canale e Aldo Mazzotti, 6-7/01/2013
By
Gianni Canale
Orientation
West
Length
270m
Difficulty
VI ice, M6, VI+ rock
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Valeria, important new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites On 6-7 January 2013 Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Via Valeria (270m, VI ice, M4+, VI+ rock) up the west face of Crozzon di Brenta,...