The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

12
Routes in archive
Amore e ombra
Amore e ombra - Col Turont
M9, VIII, WI5
A difficult new mixed outing in Langental that follows a logical series of of cracks and corners up the Col Turont face.
Ein Tag zum Träumen
Ein Tag zum Träumen - Langental
WI6 M7
Ein Tag zum Träumen, a dream day. Probably the longest ice climb in the entire Langental, it receives the sun almost all day. Perfect conditions are needed to make an ascent possible.
Happy New Year
Happy New Year - Langental
WI5+, M6+
Delicate climbing up somewhat poor quality rock. Bolts at the belays and on the more delicate sections of both pitches. On the second pitch a short mixed section leads to a spectacular drip. The climb is located in a deep...
Illuminati
Illuminati - Vallunga
M11+/WI 6+
On 24 January 2006 Albert Leichtfried made the first ascent of "Illuminati", a 5 pitch mixed outing located in Val Lunga, close to Selva Gardena, N. Italy. The 30 year old Austrian has put forward the impressive grade M11+/WI 6+.Leichtfried...
La Piera
La Piera - Dlacion de col dela Pieres
IV, WI 5
Compared to the nearby Val Gardena, Vallunga is more suited to more adventurous ice climbers, those who love a pristine alpine ambient. Vallunga is a lonely valley, criss-crossed for a bit by a cross-country piste, marked by 600-700m high faces...
La Strega + Evolution
La Strega + Evolution - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena
WI 5+ M9+
A really beautiful route to the right of La Piovra that offers some difficult mixed climbing. Something for experts. The first pitches that lead to the roof were climbed for the first time in 1992 by the brothers Cristoforo and...
Saxofon
Saxofon - Langental
WI5 M7
Ice climb located above the classic Piovra in the Langental, Dolomites. The climbing on the mixed section is short but athletic past good quality rock, but it takes a good dose of courage to climb the drip after the last...
Senza Piombo
Senza Piombo - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena
M10 WI 5
A beautiful and difficult route first climbed by the Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner,i n a clean style, i.e. without pegs and bolts and using only nuts and friends to protect the pitches and belays.
Sonnentanz
Sonnentanz - Langental
WI5+ M7+
Mixed route in Langental / Vallunga that climbs through the big cave to the left of lluminati. Three pitches of water ice are followed by a mixed pitch which, protected by 6 bolts, breaches the grotto. A further two ice...
Teufelsgeige
Teufelsgeige - Langental
IV, WI 5
Interesting ice climb located circa 30m to the right of the classic Piovra in Langental / Vallunga. Teufelsgeige has proven to be an instant classic.
Ultimo Minuto
Ultimo Minuto - Langental
WI5+, M6
Mixed variation to the famous icefall La Piovra. Ultimo Minuto climbes the first pitch of La Piovra di Destra, ie the righthand branch of the drip, then protected by 5 bolts tackles a 20m section of rock to reach the...
Zweite Geige
Zweite Geige - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena
WI7/M7
On 28/01/2014 Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Bendikt Purner made the first ascent of Zweite Geige (WI7/M7) in Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.


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