Cirque of the Unclimbables Canada, Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer

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Power of Silence - Middle Huey Spire

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Cirque of the Unclimbables Canada: Ines Papert on the headwall of Power of Silence 400m, 5.13a on the Middle Huey Spire

Ines Papert / Lisi Steurer

Beauty

First ascent

Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer 08/2009. First free ascent: Prima libera: Ines Papert 07/08/2009

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Orientation

Length

400m

Height

2310m

Difficulty

7c+

Period

Summer

Link

www.ines-papert.de

Published on

14/09/2009

Route

Logical line along cracks and through a very obvious system of dihedrals in the left section of the wall past some enormous roofs. Established over three days at the start of August 2009, then climbed free in a day by Ines Papert.

Getting there

From Blackstone fly to Glacier Lake, then continue on foot for a day to reach the Cirque of the Unclimbables and the Fairy Meadows.

Access

The route starts to the right of the 1977 Middle Huey Spire route, then climbs left and crosses this after pitch three.

Itinerary

P1: 5.4, 60m
P2: 5.10b, 45m
P3: 5.10c, 45m
P4: 5.10d, 45m
P5: 5.10c, 30m
P6: 5.12c, 36m,
P7: 5.12b, 25m
P8: 5.11a, 27m
P9: 5.13a, 20m
P10: 5.11c, 40m
P11: 5.11a, 20m

Descent

Abseil down the line of ascent.

Gear

Belays equipped with bolts, 4 other bolts placed along the route. All the rest climbed free with trad gear.