Pacchia - Castelletto della Tofana di Rozes
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Planetmountain
Beautiful route up the NW Face of the Castelletto. The route, bolted from the ground up during the first ascent, is equipped with 10mm bolts.
From Cortina take the road SS48 that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 1 km before the pass, next to the red Ra Nona roadman's house (1985m).
GPS Coordinates: 46.519821, 12.027791
Take path no. 412 that leads away from the roadman's house towards Forcella Col dei Bos. After 10 minutes the path transforms into a dirt track; continue up to the col (2330m), and from here do not follow signs right for the "Ferrata del Castelletto", but instead proceed along the path that leads down into Val Travenanzes until the sign for "Ferrata Lipella". Turn off right, reach the "mysterious boulder" (so-called as it is neatly divided in half) and continue on for a further 5 minutes to reach the north-west face of the Castelletto (1.15 hrs from the car). The bolts can be easily seen from the path: Pacchia starts to the left of the yellow roof, close to the massive grey wet streak.
GPS coordinates: 46°32'08.8"N 12°02'25.3"E; 46.535767, 12.040353
DescentFrom the summit either abseil using one 70m rope or, more comfortably, from the final belay traverse left along the wide ledge that leads onto the other side of the Castelletto. From here continue down the path in roughly 20 minutes to the base of the routes.
Gear8 quickdraws and one 70m rope.
NotesThe route is equipped with 57 bolts, 18 for the belays, and one on the summit to reach the crest.
Via molto bella su roccia ottima. Arrampicata tecnica, non di facile lettura, bellissimo in particolare L6. Il tiro del tetto, L4, valuterei 6c+, L8 invece 6b+. Come scrive Amos, protezioni ottime, anche se forse in qualche punto un po' distanziate, soprattutto sull'ultimo tiro di 6a+. Direi S2 sinceramente. Ripetuta il 21/09/2025, sempre all'ombra quindi. In ogni caso complimenti agli apritori, bella via in un ambiente fantastico, assolutamente da fare.
Arrampicata tecnica di soddisfazione. Tiro 4 massimo 6c, tiro 5 6a secondo me, tiro 8 6b+