Hard o Soft? - Porto Flavia - Masua
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Maurizio Oviglia
Hard or Soft? climbs the beautiful Sol Levante face on the Scogliera di Masua sea cliff. Established ground-up in 2001 by Flaviano Bessone and Ezio Marlier, it was completely rebolted in 316 stainless steel at the end of 2022 by Maurizio Oviglia and Marco Bigatti, owner of the B&B Pedra Rubia in Nebida a short distance from the cliffs, who provided all the new bolts. During this rebolting a variation was established on the first pitch that "softens" the crux from 6b+ to 6a+, making the difficulties more homogeneous.
The Masua sea cliff is located in Sulcis Iglesiente, in the South West of Sardinia. From Cagliari take the SS130 towards Iglesias and continue towards Gonnesa and Carbonia. At Stazione Monteponi turn right and take the SP83 for Nebida and Buggerru. Continue along the panoramic road, pass Nebida, then then descend towards the Masua beach. At the large parking lot of Portu Cauli beach turn right following signs for "Miniera Mausa Porta Flavia" and follow the dirt road to the car park of the mine.
GPS coordinates: 39.33661818800543, 8.416320153345268.
AccessFrom the Porto Flavia car park walk up to the road and after about 50m, as the road bends slightly, take the path on the left that leads down via a gravel ridge to the rocks below. Follow the coastline towards the Sol Levante face; circa halfway there's a short wall that needs scrambling over (grade II). Reach the end of the rocks and the start of the climb (20 minutes).
GPS coordinates: 39.3368533, 8.4097
ItineraryP1: 6a+, 35m or 6b+ obblig original
P2: 5c, 25m
P3: 6a, 30m
P4: 6a+, 25m. An asbolutely splendind pitch. Follow the line of bolts on the right. Garfield crosses at the third belay and climbs the line to the left.
P5: 6a+, 25m. Another splendid pitch on absolutely amazing rock.
P6: 6a, 20m
B&B Pedra Rubia at Nebida. Info: bb-sardegna.com
Maps/BibliographyPietra di Luna, trad & Multipitches, 2014 by Maurizio Oviglia. www.pietradiluna.com
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Splendida via, arrampicata super divertente. Siamo saliti per la variante pi facile sul primo tiro. Da inventare la roccia del 4 e 5 tiro, pazzesca. Per me, una delle pi belle di questo grado! Complimenti agli apritori Flaviano Bessone e Ezio Marlier, e a Maurizio Oviglia e Marco Bigatti per l'ottima richiodatura.
Splendid route, superbly fun climbing. We took the easier variation on the first pitch. The rock on the 4th and 5th pitches is out of this world — absolutely amazing. For me, one of the most beautiful routes at this grade! Congratulations to the first ascensionists Flaviano Bessone and Ezio Marlier, and to Maurizio Oviglia and Marco Bigatti for the impeccable rebolting.