Ego Land - Marmolada

Planetmountain.com
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The first ascent of 'Ego Land' on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites (Luca Bana, Massimo Faletti, Bernardo Rivadossi 08/2024)
Max Faletti
Beauty
First ascent
Luca Bana, Massimo Faletti, Bernardo Rivadossi estate 2024. First repeat: Marcello Bombardi summer 2025
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
South
Length
410m
Difficulty
8c/+
Obligatory difficulty
7c+
Departure
Malga Ciapela
Published on
02/09/2024

Route



Ego Land is "a true masterpiece" that winds its way through the enormous overhang on the lower section of the Elephants back, before tackling the legendary limestone slabs and pockets of the south face of the Marmolada.

The climb was established ground-up in summer 2024 by Bernardo Rivadossi and Massimo Faletti. The pair chose a line that starts to the left of Alì Babà (M. Giordani, F. Zenatti, P. Cipriani, 1983) then crosses it at the second pitch before continuing straight up for a total of 410 meters split into 10 pitches. At the top it crosses Grande Traverso, established by Igor Koller & co.

Rivadossi later returned with Luca Bana, and the two forged two other pitches to make the new route more independent from Ali Babà. After trying the moves and resting for a few days, on August 28 the pair freed the route in "team free" style (swinging leads, with the leader freeing each pitch).

Itinerary

See topo





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Beauty
First ascent
Luca Bana, Massimo Faletti, Bernardo Rivadossi estate 2024. First repeat: Marcello Bombardi summer 2025
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
South
Length
410m
Difficulty
8c/+
Obligatory difficulty
7c+
Departure
Malga Ciapela
Published on
02/09/2024

Route



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