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Crags > Sengio Rosso

Sengio Rosso

Italy>Veneto>Verona>Caprino Veronese
Cristiano Pastorello
Traduci in
1 / 10
Sengio Rosso, Italy
Cristiano Pastorello
Beauty
Sectors
GO
Difficulty
5a - 8a+
Height
100m
Routes number
78
Rock type
Magnificent red and grey limestone. The first section is marked by pockets and flakes and the routes tend not to be too difficult. The central section is marked by pockets and small crimps and some routes offer heart-stopping friction moves.
Orientation
South/East
Rope
Most routes are 30/30m long and a 70m rope is indispensable. Some routes require an 80m rope. Take 13 - 15 quickdraws.


The impressive red outcrop Sengio Rosso appears in the distance like a shiny jewel, wedged into the green slopes of Monte Baldo and clearly visible from the plain below... fog and weather conditions permitting. The motley coloured Sengio Rosso crag was one of the first to attract the climbing pioneers from the Verona Caprino area. Raised with the glacier-smooth grey and red limestone above their houses, at the end of the '70's calibre climbers such as Sergio Coltri and Carlo Laiti began to explore the most logical and natural lines, making the most of rudimental bolts and wire to equip the routes. As climbing techniques evolved and these climbers gained experience, some of the most beautiful slabs in the Verona area were brought to life, including "La porta del buio", "Brena violenta" and the magnificent "Cura la carie" to name but three. Sengio Rosso then experienced a period of oblivion between the start of the '80's and the end of the '90's, but at the start of the new millennium it was rediscovered by Beppe Vidali, one of the most active local new routers. Thanks to his tireless effort the crag was enriched with technical and highly aesthetic routes such as Fog", "Zenzero", "Tala Patagonica" and more recently "Orchis" and "50 e non sentirli", while the smoothest slabs were freed by the class climber Nicola Sartori. His lines "Wara Wara del sur", "Zaiss" and "La Bestiaccia" boast sinuous, technical moves and now the crag has come of age offering routes even harder than 8a. No one could have imagined that one day these "youngsters" would have joined forced to promote the crag, write a guidebook (Tra il Lago e il Fiume, Cierre edizioni) and organised the first climbing meeting in the Caprino area: the Sengio Rosso Climbing Festival, scheduled for 9 April 2011.
Access
Take the A22 motorway, exit at Affi and reach Caprino Veronese. From here continue towards Spiazzi and Ferrara di Monte Baldo. At Pazzon continue for another 1800m and then turn off left for Braga – Pradonego. Continue past Braghizzola and park close to small country road on the left (marker Cai 53 Piore – Lumini). Follow this road for 1500m almost to the start of the pine forest and take the path (yellow markers) on the left to the crag. The crag is 2/3 on private property and 1/3 on state property, so please treat the area with maximum respect. Logistics
Locanda Trattoria al Platano (da Angelo), offers good value lodging, otherwise check out the numerous B&B in the area http://www.bedandbreakfastbaldogarda.it. There are numerous bars and pizzerie at Caprino Veronese. Period
Despite the crag being located at 900m, the best time of year is from October to the end of April thanks to the particular micro-climate and climbing in a T-shirt above the sea of fog is a common occurrence in winter. Avoid climbn here on overcast days in winter. Climb
The climbing at Sengio Rosso dates back to the '80's... good footwork is fundamental. The rock offers great friction and if you wear some Lycra tights you're bound to climb a grade harder! 5a: 2 5b: 4 5c: 4 6a: 17 6b: 21 6c: 12 7a: 7 7b: 5 7c: 1 8a: 5 Bibliography
Tra il lago ed il Fiume, Sergio Coltri, Beppe Vidali. Cierre Edizioni (can be bought at the Locanda al Platano)
Sengio Rosso, Italy - Sengio Rosso, Italy Sengio Rosso, Italy - Sengio Rosso, Italy Sengio Rosso, Italy - Sengio Rosso, Italy Sengio Rosso, Italy - Sengio Rosso, ItalySengio Rosso, Italy - Sengio Rosso, ItalySengio Rosso, Italy - Sengio Rosso, ItalySengio Rosso, Italy - Sengio Rosso, ItalySengio Rosso, Italy - Sengio Rosso, Italy
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Sectors

Sengio Rosso
Routes
N° Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Roba da ciodi 20m, 30m 5b, 6a+
chiodi vecchi
2 Seca 28m 5a
chiodi vecchi
3 Rolcignomania 30 m, 30m 5b, 5a
chiodi vecchi
4 Ultima nota 40m 7b
chiodi vecchi
5 Wau Wau 35m 7b+
6 Barle 35m 7b+
7 Criniere di cavallo 25m, 25m, 40m 5b, 6b, 5c
8 Lassu sulle nuvole 40m 8a
9 Variante 25m 6b+
10 Delusione ottica 25m 6a+
11 Mephisto 40m, 25m 6c+, 6b+
12 La bestiaccia 35m, 15m 8a+, ?
13 Variante ?
14 Brena violenta 35m, 15m 7c, 8a+
14 Orchis 35m 7b
15 Wara Wara del sur 35m 8a
16 Exspresso del sur 35m 7b+
17 Delirio verticale 25m, 20m, 25m 6b+, 6a+, 6a+
18 Cura la carie 25m 7a+
19 Zeiss 37m 8a+
20 Red crack 35m, 25m 6c, 6a
20 35m 7a
21 Bandaid 30m, 25m 6a+, 6b
22 Piccolo falco 35m, 25m 6b, 6b
23 Zen - zero 35m 7a
23 Zen - uno 35m 7a
24 Magiche placche 30m, 30m 6b, 6a
25 La piera del sengio 30m 6b
26 Oro rosso 35m 6c
27 Fog 30m 6b+
28 M.A.V.D. 30m, 20, 20m 6b, 7a+, 6a+
29 Il mago della placca 35m 6b+/A0
30 Questione di feeling 22m 6a+
30 50 e non sentirli 37m 6c+
31 La porta del buio 30m, 25m 7a, 6c
32 Uomini di pietra 30m 6c
33 Capel del prete 30m, 20m 6b+, 6a+
34 Via del tetto
Sconsigliata
35 Talapatagonica 30m, 20m 6b+, 6c
36 Via Giò 35m 6b+
37 Piussi 30m 6b
38 Luna bing 30m, 20m 6a+, 6a
39 Via degli amici 25m, 25m 6a, 5a
40 Mister Shakleton 35m 6a
41 Zabrinski point 35m 6b
42 Oro grigio 35m 6b
43 Luce d'ottobre 35m 6c
44 Il trio 35m 5c
45 Fanny 35m 5c
46 Variante 15m 5c
47 Ascent 35m 6a
48 La via della sete 35m 6a+
49 Megalodont 33m 6b
50 Critical mass 33m 7a+
51 Bon machine 34m 6c
52 T. Rex 25m 6c
53 Chi cerca trova 25m 5b
54 Namaste 25m 6a
55 El toscan 20m 6b+
56 Katana 25m 6a
57 Lucia 25m 6b
58 Good vibration 25m 6c
59 Castelli d'aria 30m, 30m 6b, 6c





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Beauty
Sectors
GO
Difficulty
5a - 8a+
Height
100m
Routes number
78
Rock type
Magnificent red and grey limestone. The first section is marked by pockets and flakes and the routes tend not to be too difficult. The central section is marked by pockets and small crimps and some routes offer heart-stopping friction moves.
Orientation
South/East
Rope
Most routes are 30/30m long and a 70m rope is indispensable. Some routes require an 80m rope. Take 13 - 15 quickdraws.


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