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Never Sleeping Wall

Italy>Sicily>Trapani>San Vito Lo Capo

Albert Leichtfried, Mountain Guide

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Never Sleeping Wall, Sicily

Klaus Kranebitter

Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

5b - 8a/a+

Height

100m

Link

www.freeclimbinginsicily.it

Routes number

Rock type

Limestone

Orientation

West

Rope

80m rope

Located on the northwest tip of Sicily and a mere 500m from the seaside, the almost surreal Never Sleeping Wall was first developed in 2008 by British climber Jim Titt and a group of visiting Czech climbers and their Italian friends. Motivated by talk of fantastic limestone and further potential, in autumn 2009 a visiting group of Austrian climbers established a further set of routes, rendering the crag a little gem in the Mediterranean. You need a fair while to take in the mighty limestone wall with its incredible tufas and streaked, grey and orange rock. At sunset the entire crag glows bright red and the atmosphere couldn't be more impressive when you climb one of the 50m routes at last light.At present there are 14 routes, from 5b to 8a+, with Tears of Freedom ranking as one of the most beautiful 7a+ in the world!

Access
From San Vito lo Capo drive to Custonaci (circa 15km) and follow signs for "Grotta Mangiapane". Continue along the gravel track and park circa 200m past the cave. Walk to the crag in approximately 1 minute. Logistics
Accommodation in Custonaci, Cornino and San Vito lo Capo. Period
Autumn, spring. Climb
Stamina climbing on tufas. Bibliography

	Sportclimbing in Sicily – San Vito lo Capo Sicilia – Sizilien (German, Italian, English), Vertical-Life.info, 2013 The topos to this area are also available in the Vertical-Life App for Android via Google Playand iPhone via iTunes.
	Di Roccia di sole. Arrampicate in Sicilia, Massimo Cappuccio, Peppe Gallo, Versante Sud

Never Sleeping Wall, Sicily - Albert Leichtfried climbing Il patrone nero 8a/a+, Never Sleeping Wall, Sicily

Never Sleeping Wall, Sicily - Albert Leichtfried climbing Evil lurks behind every mans heart 8a, Never Sleeping Wall, Sicily

Never Sleeping Wall, Sicily - Albert Leichtfried climbing Superman 7c+/8a, Never Sleeping Wall, Sicily

Never Sleeping Wall, Sicily - Vroni Leichtfried climbing Conscious change 6b+, Never Sleeping Wall, Sicily

Never Sleeping Wall, Sicily - Vroni Leichtfried climbing Tears of Freedom 7a+, Never Sleeping Wall, Sicily

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Sectors

Never Sleeping Wall

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Sweet dreams are made of this	20m	6c
	Karsten Oelze
2	Long sleep	30m	6b+
	Paul Mair, 2009
3	Concious change	20m	6b+
	Vroni Leichtfried, 2009
4	Silent sleep	20m	6a+
	Paul Mair, 2009
5	Long white line	35m	7b+
	Smolen / Cermak / Setr, 2008
6	Long white night	50m	7c
	Smolen / Cermak / Setr, 2008
7	Tith’s artificial	20m	6c+
	Jim Titt
8	Superman	25m	7c+/8a
	Albert Leichtfried, 2009
9	Evil lurks behind every man’s heart	50m	8a
	Albert Leichtfried, 2009
10	Tears of freedom	35m	7a+
	Albert Leichtfried, 2009
11	Il patrone nero	30m	8a/a+
	Albert Leichtfried, 2009
12	Fun & Seitenstrang	20m	6b
	Albert Leichtfried, 2009
13	Harissa	20m	5b
	Paul Mair, 2009
14	Peperoncini	20m	6a
	Paul Mair, 2009