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Roberto Casanova
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Poema de Roca, El Chorro, Spain
Roberto Casanova
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 8a
Height
20 metri
Rock type
Overhanging limestone
Orientation
NE, NW
Rope
70m
Although clearly visible from the road down below, at first glance the crag fails to impress. It is only when standing beneath the walls does one realise the importance of this area is and that this really is the place to be. The crag is divided into various small sectors, all of which are on excellent overhanging limestone: over 70 routes abound here, the majority of which are over 15m high.
Access
Loja is situated 52km from Granada and 70km from Malaga and can be reached via the N-342 highway, which connects the two cities. Drive to the town square and bar "El Pino", about 200m from the Guardia Civile. A dirt track starts from here and leads after a few kilometers to the crag. Logistics
Archidona and Loja are located near Granada and are not as developed as the many nearby seaside tourist resorts. Accommodation is therefore harder to find: Archidona's recently restructured hotel Escua is recommended, and should it prove necessary, then hotels can be found in nearby Antequera. Granada is 50 min away from Loja. Period
Spring, autumn Climb
The climbing tends to be more technical than at the Cueva di Archidona, but the many tufas can make these routes extremely pumpy, too. Notes
Bibliography
To our knowledge, Archidona and Loja are not covered by any guidebooks; articles have appeared in the Spanish Escalar, and the climbing shop in nearby Antequera can be relied on for information.
Loja is situated 52km from Granada and 70km from Malaga and can be reached via the N-342 highway, which connects the two cities. Drive to the town square and bar "El Pino", about 200m from the Guardia Civile. A dirt track starts from here and leads after a few kilometers to the crag. Logistics
Archidona and Loja are located near Granada and are not as developed as the many nearby seaside tourist resorts. Accommodation is therefore harder to find: Archidona's recently restructured hotel Escua is recommended, and should it prove necessary, then hotels can be found in nearby Antequera. Granada is 50 min away from Loja. Period
Spring, autumn Climb
The climbing tends to be more technical than at the Cueva di Archidona, but the many tufas can make these routes extremely pumpy, too. Notes
Bibliography
To our knowledge, Archidona and Loja are not covered by any guidebooks; articles have appeared in the Spanish Escalar, and the climbing shop in nearby Antequera can be relied on for information.
See all photosSectors
Colorin Colorado
Routes
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Colorin colorado el cuento se te ha acabado | |
7c+/8a | |
| 2 | Idioma galveciano | |
7b | |
| 3 | Atila Matutino | |
7b | |
| 4 | Zingaros | |
7a |
Central y A-sombrao
Routes
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | La zorra y las chapas | |
Ll/ 7a/ L2 6a/ L3 7b+ | |
| 2 | El tratante | |
? | |
| 3 | Progetto | |
||
| 4 | Progetto | |
||
| 5 | Progetto | |
||
| 6 | Vibraciones positivas | |
8a | |
| 7 | Morada de vampiros | |
7a+ | |
| 8 | iuego de manos | |
7a+/b | |
| 9 | Dos itanos | |
7c | |
| 10 | Hasta luego Luca | |
7b. | |
| 11 | Tela marinera | |
6b | |
| 12 | Enrezagia | |
6b | |
| 13 | Panceta | |
6a+ | |
| 14 | A sombrao | |
7b+ | |
| 15 | Piperra | |
6b + | |
| 16 | Puta Navidad | |
6c | |
| 17 | Helao recalentao | |
6c. |
Unzungu
Routes
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Unzungo | |
8a | |
| 2 | ? | |
7b | |
| 3 | Tauncro | |
7b+ | |
| 4 | la demozia | |
? | |
| 5 | Kalahary | |
7b | |
| 6 | Aborigen | |
7a+ | |
| 7 | Gentuza | |
? | |
| 8 | Locos de atar | |
6c+/7a | |
| 9 | Tremalleta | |
6c+ | |
| 10 | Dragones y mazmorras | |
6b+ | |
| 11 | Trogloditas sibaritas | |
6c+ |
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 8a
Height
20 metri
Rock type
Overhanging limestone
Orientation
NE, NW
Rope
70m
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