Climbing at Villanuova, Friuli, Italy
Andrea Polo introduces the historic winter crag Villanuova, with 30 routes up to 8b/c.
Villanuova is a historic little crag in the Carnia region of NE Italy, ideal for sport climbing in winter. Most of the development took place during the '90's by Toni Cattarino and Alex Cucchiaro and they were joined by Luciano 'Chen' Cimenti, certainly one of the strongest climbers in Italy at the time. In recent years Gianni 'Doc' Cattaino and friends have added some new routes and re-equipped some old ones.
The limestone is extremely compact with small crimps and little pockets, offering technical stamina climbing. Smooth slabs and vertical faces are broken by short, physically demanding cruxes. Some of the harder routes have resin here and there - in keeping with the 90's - but this takes nothing away from the beauty of Villanuova which really is worth a visit. The routes are equipped with 10mm stainless steel or resin bolts.
The crag receives the sun from the morning to evening and this favourable aspect means that climbing can take place even on cold, but sunny, winter days.
- Check out the crag Villanuova