Villanuova is a historic little crag in the Carnia region of NE Italy, ideal for sport climbing in winter. Most of the development took place during the '90's by Toni Cattarino and Alex Cucchiaro and they were joined by Luciano 'Chen' Cimenti, certainly one of the strongest climbers in Italy at the time. In recent years Gianni 'Doc' Cattaino and friends have added some new routes and re-equipped some old ones.
Take the motorway A23, exit at Tolmezzo and follow signs for this town by taking the SS52. After circa 6km bear right, following signs for Villa Santina. Reach this and bear right towards Sappada to reach Sot Clap, 100m after the sign on the left for Raveo. park on the left close to the cycle path or on the right, but not in the inviting field as this is private property. From the car park take the obvious path, sign-posted for Loc. Avaglio. Walk past the barriers and close to the scree slope follow the track rightwards which leads up to the base of the crag, circa 15 minutes from the car.
The limestone is extremely compact with small crimps and little pockets, offering technical stamina climbing. Smooth slabs and vertical faces are broken by short, physically demanding cruxes. Some of the harder routes have resin here and there - in keeping with the 90's - but this takes nothing away from the beauty of Villanuova which really is worth a visit. The routes are equipped with 10mm stainless steel or resin bolts.
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