Home page Planetmountain.com
Tra Nuvole e Sogni (8a, 7b obb., S3+. Nicola Tondini, Andrea Simonini. First free ascent Nicola Tondini 10/2013) Sass Mesdì, Monte Cimo
Photo by archivio Nicola Tondini
Herman Zanetti and Rolando Larcher during the final abseil after having repeated Tra Nuvole e Sogni on Monte Cimo
Photo by Rolando Larcher
Tra Nuvole e Sogni (8a, 7b obb., S3+. Nicola Tondini, Andrea Simonini. First free ascent Nicola Tondini 10/2013) Sass Mesdì, Monte Cimo
Photo by archivio Nicola Tondini

Tra Nuvole e Sogni, Rolando Larcher and Herman Zanetti make difficult repeat on Monte Cimo

di

On Sunday 21/05/2017 Rolando Larcher and Herman Zanetti made the probable first repeat of Tra Nuvole e Sogni (200m, 8a max, 7b obligatory), the difficult climb put up by Nicola Tondini and Andrea Simonini in 2012 on Monte Cimo (Brentino, Val d’Adige, Italy).

"After having repeated practically all the most difficult routes in the area, I can say that the moves to the last piece of gear provide the most demanding obligatory climbing on all of Monte Cimo." With these words Rolando Larcher describes a pitch, the sixth and penultimate therefore, on Tra Nuvole e Sogni, the climb put up in 2012 by Nicola Tondini and Andrea Simonini on the Sass Mesdì face of Monte Cimo, high above Val d 'Adige.

Evidently this pitch is something special and although technically not the most difficult it unlocks the key to the rest of the route which, as it stands, must be regarded as one of the hardest in the entire Val d’Adige. Larcher climbed the line last Sunday together with Herman Zanetti and his is probably the first redpoint after Tondini’s first free ascent in 2013. The details of this repeat come, as always, directly from Larcher who is extremely skilled on this type of terrain.


TRA NUVOLE E SOGNI
by Rolando Larcher

"Beautiful and demanding climb, repeated together with my usual climbing partner and friend Herman Zanetti. I managed to onisght everything, apart from the 8a pitch, which I sent tiri go. The most tricky pitch wasn’t the 3rd, the 8a, and not even the 4th a 7c+, but the 6th, graded 7b, which I tackled with superficiality, thinking that it was all over… The pitch has two psycho run-out sections far above the last peg, on an angle which isn’t ideal for falling. The first one is manageable, if you remain calm... The second one less si, with poor smears for your feet and guaranteed "sparks" if you fall! It’s a really demanding move, above all psychologically.

After having repeated practically all the most difficult routes in the area, I can say that the moves to the last piece of gear provide the most demanding obligatory climbing on all of Monte Cimo."


TOPO: Tra Nuvole e Sogni, Monte Cimo

Rolando thanks his sponsors: La Sportiva  - Petzl - Montura

Share

NEWS / Related news:
Monte Cimo: Nicola Tondini climbs three new 8a multi-pitches
10.11.2015
Monte Cimo: Nicola Tondini climbs three new 8a multi-pitches
Nicola Tondini introduces three multi-pitch rock climbs located on Monte Cimo (Brentino, Val d’Adige, Italy) they are united, apart from their difficulty, by their extraordinary beauty: Tra Nuvole e Sogni and The Edge on Sass Mesdì, and Destini Incrociati on Castel Presina.
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
15.06.2016
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher together with a series of different climbing partners has made the first ascent of Horror Vacui (8b+ max, 7b+ obl.) a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Scoglio dei Ciclopi face on Monte Cimo (Val d'Adige, Italy). As the name suggests, the line is a huge outing through the void. The report by Rolando Larcher.
L'uovo di Colombo, new route on Monte Cimo
02.07.2013
L'uovo di Colombo, new route on Monte Cimo
Rolando Larcher recounts his first ascent, carried out in mid-June together with Herman Zanetti of L'uovo di Colombo up Monte Cimo in Val d'Adige. A 200m route that breaches the obvious large roofs with two different options: hard 7c+ and soft 7a+.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria
  • Tupac Amaru - Carpe Diem
    la cascata è stata salita nel 97 da carlotti e compagni. r ...
    2015-01-06 / francesco lamo