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Via Nicola Molin

First ascent: Carlo Alverà, Federico Svaluto 29/07/09. First free ascent: Ruggero & Monica Zardini 03/07/2010
By: Carlo Alverà
Area: Dolomites, Group: Croda da Lago, Peak: Becco di Mezzodì, Height: 2603m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

The route climbs predominantly excellent rock, at times good in places. The route climbs the large roof in the NW Face and was freed in summer 2010 by  Ruggero Zardini with his wife Monica.


From Cortina drive towards Passo Giau and park the car at Ponte di rù Curto. Alternatively take the taxi from Cortina to Rifugio Croda da Lago. (Servizio taxi, tel. 0436 860888).


From Ponte di Rù Curto take path No. 437 then 434 to Rifugio Croda da Lago, then continue to Forcella Ambrizzola (2.00 hours circa). From here continue towards the "Becco" across scree to reach the start of the route (20 minutes).


The first two pitches climb up the right-hand side of the North pedestal.
Pitch 3 leads to the large roof.
Pitch 4 climbs climbs through the weakest section of the roof (7c).
Pitches 5 & 6 ascend vertically above the roof, with delicate climbing.
The final pitch climbs easy terrain to the pre-summit.
A 8m abseil leads to the col beneath, from here continue SE via an easy grade III scramble to the summit.


Descend down the normal route.


The route is protected by a mix of bolts and pegs, take a set of medium and small camming devices for the easier pitches, one 60 rope and 13 quickdraws.

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COMMENTS for the route "Via Nicola Molin"

11-09-2009, Anpezoschis
Via interessante e divertente, le protezioni in loco sono ottime e sufficienti. Dato l'ambiente alpino, il panorama mozzafiato e il tetto veramente entusiasmante merita senz'altro una ripetizione!!!
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Via Nicola Molin


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