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The Edge - Monte Cimo - Sass Mesdì

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Nicola Tondini

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The Edge: Nicola Tondini on pitch 3 of The Edge (8a) belayed by Luca Montanari. © Enrico Veronese

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Nicola Tondini and Luca Montanari; one pitch with Tommaso Dusi. First free ascent: Nicola Tondini, June 2015, accompanied by Alessandro Baù and Claudio Migliorini.

Nicola Tondini

Length

205m, 8 pitches

Difficulty

8a (7b obligatory), S3/4 (4,5m - 8m runouts), II (tecnica, chiodatura, ambiente)

Obligatory difficulty

7b, S3/4

Period

Best time of year: May to mid-November

Route

Airy route that zigzags its way along the aerie past the large roofs. Exposure is the hallmark of this climb and almost all pitches contain bouldery cruxes. The easier sections are fairly run-out. This, combined with the exposure, creates an interesting mind game.

Descent

Abseil down the route Capitani Coraggiosi and Via del Babo

Gear

7 quickdraws

Comments

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15/11/2015 Lepesant Ben

The first 3 pitches are excellent, after that the climbing remains good, but the awkwardness of the line is distracting. The line of the route is very illogical. Impressive bolting on lead though, with some interesting bits in between bolts. Great place overall. The crux pitch and the one below are awesome. Nice exposure. On the last pitch, we couldn't find the line across the big overhang, so we finished in the grass after the 4th bolt.

Beauty

First ascent

Nicola Tondini and Luca Montanari; one pitch with Tommaso Dusi. First free ascent: Nicola Tondini, June 2015, accompanied by Alessandro Baù and Claudio Migliorini.

Nicola Tondini

Length

205m, 8 pitches

Difficulty

8a (7b obligatory), S3/4 (4,5m - 8m runouts), II (tecnica, chiodatura, ambiente)

Obligatory difficulty

7b, S3/4

Period

Best time of year: May to mid-November

Link

https://www.xmountain.it

Route