The Fish route - Via Attraverso il Pesce - Marmolada d'Ombretta
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A legendary route, and quite rightly so; a true masterpiece of Dolomite climbing. Nowadays the “Pesce” has become a classic extreme, and even if the original protection has been modified, it nevertheless remains a route not to be underestimated.
Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela.
AccessFrom the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080m), nestled beneath the South Face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). From Rif. Falier follow path no. 610, to the narrow hairpin bends where it points up to Passo d'Ombretta (west); traverse right (east) across alpine meadows upwards to a ramp that leads up the pedestal to the base of the routes. The start of the route is located to the right of an obvious waterfall, close to the “Conforto” cracks.
For the routes situated on Punta Penia, continue on past Rif. Falier along path no. 610 to Rif. Contrin (2016m) located between the Val Contrin and the Val Rosalia.
Two 50m abseils down onto the glacier, then follow the piste to the half-way station of the Malga Ciapela cable car.
GearTwo 50 m ropes, pegs, full rack, plenty of Kevlar threads and slings.
NotesFirst on-sight: Daniele de Candido, 1990
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