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Via Phoenix (via della Fenice)

First ascent: Marco Sandri, Omar Ropelato, 19/08/2013
By: Marco Sandri, Omar Ropelato
Area: Dolomites, Group: Lagorai, Peak: Secondo Campanile di Val Orsera, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Via Phoenix (via della Fenice) was climbed ground-up over two days, with a bivi at the base of the face. It climbs the Secondo Campanile in Val Orsera and, as such, is the first and only route to climb this tower. 6 pitches, 200m high. The start is obvious, it’s the crux pitch, called shark’s fin. Those who repeat the route will understand why. The belays are comprised of a mix of bolts and pegs, while some pitches have been protected with the odd bolt.


Take the SS47 Valsugana road, exit at Strigno and continue towards Spera, follow the signs to Crucolo - Carlettini - Val Campelle. Once you reach Val Campelle continue to Tedon (turn right after the wooden bridge).


If there isn’t too much snow head down from the gully that separates the third tower with Cima Mino Donà, alternatively head to Forzelon Ravato reach the col Forcella Ravetta and descend to the Caldenave hut.


Friends BD from 0.3 - 2 and nuts. Pegs not really necessary. Half ropes recommended. The belays are comprised of a mix of bolts and pegs, while some pitches have been protected with the odd bolt.

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