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Spéléologie

First ascent: Jasmin Biller, Armando Bodeo 02/2015
By: Jasmin Biller, Armando Bodeo
Area: Morocco, Group: Rif Mountains, Peak: Caiat, Akchour, Country: Morocco

The Caiat massif offers beautiful climbing on its splendid limestone walls. The potential for new routing is enormous. This route in the Akchour valley was established ground-up from 22 to 25 February 2015. Since the route weaves its way through a series of faults, stalactites and karst caves, choosing the route name proved simple: Spéléologie. Thanks to Stile Alpino and the Scoiattoli Denti della Vecchi club for the excellent gear.

ACCESS

From Café Rueda head towards Akchour, park at the dam, follow the path for the sector Kefi Shop (5 minutes by car + 15  minutes on foot, name marked at the base of the route)

ROUTE

P1: 6a+, 40m. 3⁄4 of the pitch shared with  'Staby Wielblad'.

P2: 6c, 35m. Easy start in the corner, then crack with delicate finish.
P3: 6b, 30m. technical slab followed by easier terrain
P4: 7a, 25m. Crux pitch, well worth climbing the entire route just for this. Fragile overhanging tufa leads to a pocketed finish
P5: 6b+, 20 m. Vertical face climbing up sharp crimps, exit onto rough pockets. Summit book to the right of the belay.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route (P3 + P4 together, 48m!)

GEAR

2 x 50m ropes, 12 quickdrawas, Friends Camalot B.D. from 0.5 - 2 may be found useful

NOTES

The route has been bolted with 10m stainless steel bolts.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7a

FACE

South

LENGTH

150m

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Spéléologie

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LINK

www.liberte-verticale.com

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