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First ascent: Beppe Domenichelli, Corrado Pibiri and Bruno Poddesu, April 1980. Final three pitches to the top: Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri, 31/05/2013
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Sardinia, Group: Perda asub e pari - Garibaldi, Peak: Perda asub 'e pari - Garibaldi, Country: Italy, Region: Sardinia

Perda asub 'e pari (also known as Garibaldi) literally means "One stone above the other" is a truly surprising granite peak! Inside there is a maze of tunnels which lead from one side of the mountain to the other. On 31 May 2013, 33 years after the first ascent by Beppe Domenichelli, Corrado Pibiri and Bruno Poddesu, Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri completed this historic and incredible route in Southern Sardinia. A strange and amazing line: every pitch is different and it holds plenty of surprises in store.


From Cagliari take the SS125 for about 30 km to Arcu Neridu. Turn off right, then left after the forest warden building. Continue along the dirt road and park where the road ends at Maidopis.


Follow a path to the left of the bar that crosses the road, heading towards the building. When almost above this take a small path that leads level and then passes beneath a giant boulder. Continue leftwards downhill to reach the base of the wall (25 minutes from the car).


To the left of the large corner which splits the face there is a bolted crack up clean rock, a variation called "Nonno Fabio" (route name at the base) while the original start lies to the left.
1) Climb the beautiful crack (possible greenpoint, in complete safety, with Friends) to the belay, 6a+.
2) Climb up brown corner to the thread, then gain the slab via a difficult move protected by a "historic" bolt. Climb the corner (fist-crack, protected by Friend #4 and an old wedge) to reach a terrace. Climb left briefly to reach a cave. Belay #2, 6a+. From here you can enter the mountain and exit the other side and walk down on foot along the path (!).
3) Continue up the corner until the crack splits. Difficult 6b moves to the right protected by two bolts, or rounded 6a+ crack on the left. Reach the large ledge and third belay, where the original route ended. (6b)
4) Move easily left into a cave formed by the giant resting slab (sometimes a hermit lives here), Belay #4.
5) Bridge up to reach a wide crack. Grab a massive hold, now in the dark bowels of the mountain, and head towards the light. Exit the lower two holes to reach belay # 5 (6a+).
6) Battle up the hard bolted slab, traverse left but at the last bolt climb towards the final boulder to reach the hole. Enter this and exit the other side. Tree belay #6 on a granite plattform (6c/6c+).
7) Avoid the original finish of Piccioni Poddesu with old bolt (6a+) and belay #7 below the leaning slab.
8) Somehow manage to climb up and into the chimney which narrows down into a funnel. Crawl you way up the offwidth (bolts) to grab a good hold and get established on the slab. Ascend this ultra-panoramic final section to reach the top (6b+)


From the summit make a first abseil to the tree. From here descend righwards down the N Face via a second abseil to reach a path and from here return to the base in 5 minutes (tree makers). Alternatively, make two abseils down the W Face off stances just below the seventh belay.


The route is partially protected with bolts. Take a full set of Friends to #4, slings, a 70m rope is sufficient and trainers for a quick descent down the N Face.

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    Sardinia, Perda asub e pari - Garibaldi
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