Boris Čujić
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The huge Čikola Canyon in Croatia, sometimes referred to as the Croatian Chulilla...
Boris Čujić
Beauty
Sectors
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
S, N


Recently one of the hot spots for climbing in Croatia has been the canyon above River Čikola, not far from the town of Šibenik. The climbing area is located in the canyon, in the immediate vicinity of the Krka National Park. Exploration of this gorgeously wild canyon has only just begun, but it is already clear that the potential is tremendous - so much so that it is sometimes referred to as the Croatian Chulilla...
 The site is easily accessible. The walls face south and are therefore suitable for climbing in winter. Furthermore, two sectors on the opposite side of the canyon have been developed recently and are ideal for summer.

The crags were equipped as part of an EU funded project that aims to establish a recreational zone in the area; approach trails and viewpoints have been built and the routes are bolted well and appropriate for beginners and recreational climbers. Nevertheless, there are plenty of harder routes, too. Most faces are slabs or vertical, but there are some slightly overhanging faces, too. The two summer sectors provide steeper climbing on tufas. The walls are up to 80 meters high and consequently the climbs are long, some up to 50 meters in height. A long rope is therefore recommended; always tie a knot into the other end of the rope before lowering off your climbing partner. Note that the longer routes tend to have anchors at mid-height.

Warning! The crags are located in a protected area and on the border with the Krka National Park. Visitors are requested to behave responsibly.

Access

From the A1 motorway take exit for Šibenik (if combing from Split this is the first exit, if travelling from Zadar this is second exit). Continue to Drniš and the village Pakovo selo, then turn off towards Miljevci. Continue until you reach the canyon; the crag is located in front and to the right. Drive over the bridge the crosses river Čikola and continue up the other side of the canyon to reach a big parking lot. From here descend back to the canyon on foot, parallel to the road, until you reach the obvious marked trail that leads to the bottom of the crag (15 min).

For the Betka sector do not descend towards the Osoje sector, but continue to the east along the upper edge of the wall. Pass the start of the zip line, and at the lookout turn slightly left and follow the markings towards the start of the Čikola ferrata. Continue along the secured part of the ferrata and on towards sector Betkin (15 minutes).

To reach the Summer sector do not turn left at the village Pakovo selo but follow the D33 for 600m and then turn left. Follow the asphalt road, past the village, to its end. Park close to the old houses. Locate the wide path and follow this NW towards the canyon. After a few hundred meters turn right along the marked path and follow this to the crag (15-20 min). To reach sector Sige, turn left following the markers about halfway along the path that leads to the summer sector.

Logistics

Many guesthouses in the surroundings of the National Park. Closest camp sites are in Lozovac (Camp Krka: http://www.camp-krka.hr/, Camp Marina: http://www.camp-marina.hr/).

Period

Autumn, winter, spring

Climb

Vertical slabs with mostly sharp crimps and up to 50m long routes. Good technique is needed. In summer sectors you can find more overhanging routes on tufas.

Bibliography

Croatia 2019
Climbing guide, Kletterführer, Guida d' arrampicata by Boris Čujić, Astroida




Sectors

Čikola Canyon
The best sport climbs
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Zlatna žila 7a+
Sector Sige
2 Scardona 7b
Sector Sige
3 Sigo lažljiva 7c
Sector Sige
4 Slavek 7c
Summer sector
5 End game 7c+
Summer sector
6 Tužna su zelena polja 7b
Sector Betkin
7 Čikola forever 6c
Sector Betkin
8 Zvizdan 7a+
Sector Osoje
9 Samiljevaca 6a+
Sector Osoje
10 Branko i danguba 6b+
Sector Osoje





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Beauty
Sectors
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
S, N


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