Rocca Miloro

Italy>Piedmont>Torino>Condove
Stefano Lacastellana, Maurizio Oviglia
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Rocca Miloro in Val di Susa, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5c - 7c+
Height
35 m
Routes number
18
Rock type
Gneiss
Orientation
South


This crag was bolted in 1992 by Diego Cordola but it never became too popular and was only published in some local Italian Mountaineeing Clum magazines under the name "Paretina di Diego."

We hope that after the recent developments it will receive the fame it deserves, given its beauty and the great climbing it offers. The routes wer rebolted by Stefano Lacastellana and Mario Cravero and were financed by myself and the club Associazione Arrampicata Sportiva Rivoli.

Access

Take the state road SS26 to Condove, reach the roundabout close to the picnic area at Gravio and follow the road towards Mocchie. After Frassinere reach the hamlet Airassa. Shortly after the entrance to the village, close to some houses, turn left onto the dirt road following signs for Miloro - Vianaudo. (From the roundabout to here circa 13 km). At Vianaudo continue for about 900 m until you reach the large yellow sign on the road (and on a rock) that indicates the start of the path. Park without blocking the road and follow the yellow markers that lead to a cliff in about 10 minutes.

Notes

The rock is the granite gneiss, typical of this part of Val Susa, almost always excellent except in some sections where it still needs some cleaning. Facing SW and at almost 1000 m, this crag is ideal for spring, autumn and on sunny winter days. In total there are 18 routes, 11 rebolted (the original line of some have been modified) and 7 new ones; the style of climbing varies from the technical slabs to crack climbing, with some corners and roofs. Some pitches are 35 m high therefore a 70 m rope may not suffice. Take particular care when lowering off.




Sectors

Rocca Miloro
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Baby Ragno 5c
Richiodata variando la linea originale, S. Lacastellana
2 Linea Logica 35 m 6a+
15 Rinvii (Richiodata, M. Cravero)
3 Mordi e Fuggi 35 m 7a
15 Rinvii (Richiodata, S. Lacastellana)
4 Passeggiando per via Roma 6c
15 Rinvii (Richiodata, S. Lacastellana)
5 Crack Over 6b+
(Richiodata, M. Cravero)
6 Dante’s Dalle 6c+
(Richiodata, M. Cravero)
7 Vai sul Duro 35 m 7a+
17 Rinvii, partenza comune con la 6; nel finale la corda tira un po’, attenti agli attriti (Richiodata variando la linea originale, S. Lacastellana)
8 Avanguardie del Futurismo 35 m 7c+
17 Rinvii (Richiodata, S. Lacastellana)
9 Progetto in fase di chiodatura 35 m ?
Variante della 8 (Nuova, S. Lacastellana)
10 Mixer X 6a+
(Richiodata, S. Lacastellana)
11 Mixer Y 6a+
Variante della 10 (Nuova, S. Lacastellana)
12 Passaggio sull’avancorpo 6c+
(Richiodata, S. Lacastellana)
13 Antigravity Games 6c+
(Richiodata, M. Cravero)
14 Impresa di Pulizia 6b
(Nuova, S. Lacastellana)
15 Trova l’intruso 6b+
(Nuova, S. Lacastellana)
16 Pelle di Serpente 6b+
(Nuova, S. Lacastellana)
17 Il Vecio e il Bocia 6c+
(Nuova, M. Cravero)
18 L’inganno del Ginepro 6b+
(Nuova, S. Lacastellana)





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5c - 7c+
Height
35 m
Routes number
18
Rock type
Gneiss
Orientation
South


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