Nomesino, Val di Gresta, Arco

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Arco - Nomesino

Italy>Trentino - Alto Adige>Trento>Nomesino

Nicholas Hobley

The beautiful crag Nomesino in Val di Gresta, Arco, Italy

Planetmountain.com

Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

6a - 8b

Routes number

32

Rock type

Limestone

Orientation

South

Rope

60m rope

One of the undisputed jewels in Arco’s crown, the small crag Nomesino is actually located in Val di Gresta, above the main road that leads from Rovereto towards Lake Garda and Arco. The first climbs on this splendid sheet of overhanging yellow and grey limestone were bolted in 1987 by Ermanno Dossi and Giuliano Dorigatti, and then crag was later developed by the likes of Stefan Fuchs, Diego Mabboni, Giorgio Manica, Loris Manzana and, above all, Rolando Larcher.

Ex Express quickly became a reference 8a for its beauty, while in 1988 Larcher climbed his first 8b with Energia = Mc2. The crag hosts 32 routes and is not particularly suited for beginners, as the majority of climbs are harder than 7a. Talking of which, even today Bucomagia is recognised as one of the most beautiful pitches of this grade in the entire Arco climbing area!

Access

Take the SS240 that leads from Rovereto to Nago / Torbole. Turn off at the roundabout at Loppio and head up towards Ronzo Chienis along the SP88 to reach the town Valle San Felice. Immediately after the church turn off right, following signs for Manzano - Nomesino. After the small tunnel, drive through the hamlet Manzano and turn off sharply left at the bus stop, up the narrow road all the way to the crag. Park with care and attention, the crag is located on private property.

Notes

Circa 20 years ago Rolando Larcher rebolted the entire crag with bolts donated by Vertical World Spor, Arco.

Nomesino, Val di Gresta, Arco - Nicholas Hobley climbing Bucomagia 7a at Nomesino in Val di Gresta, Arco, Italy

Nomesino, Val di Gresta, Arco - Andrea Ragazzi climbing Bucomagia 7a at Nomesino in Val di Gresta, Arco, Italy

Nomesino, Val di Gresta, Arco - Ex-Express 8a, Nomesino in Val di Gresta, Arco

Nomesino, Val di Gresta, Arco - The beautiful crag Nomesino in Val di Gresta, Arco, Italy

Nomesino, Val di Gresta, Arco - The beautiful crag Nomesino in Val di Gresta, Arco, Italy

Nomesino, Val di Gresta, Arco - The beautiful crag Nomesino in Val di Gresta, Arco, Italy

Nomesino, Val di Gresta, Arco - The beautiful crag Nomesino in Val di Gresta, Arco, Italy

Nomesino, Val di Gresta, Arco - The beautiful crag Nomesino in Val di Gresta, Arco, Italy

Sectors

Nomesino

The rock climbs, from left to right

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Beauty	Difficulty
1	Gotham city	20m		?
2	Placca flex	20m		7b
3	Echoes	15m		6c
4	Fino alla notte	15m		6b
5	Auschwitz	15m		6a+
6	Speriamo che	20m		6b
7	Don Chisciotte	30m		7a
8	Sehyela	15m		7a+
9	Ex regno di Ghirolandia	15m		6c
10	Sancio Panza	15m		7a+
11	Popeye	15m		7b
12	Becherovka	15m		7b+
13	Il ballo del mattone	15m		7b
14	Interceptor	15m		7a+
15	Incoerente sum	25m		8a
16	Taz	20m		8a
17	La gara di baby face	35m		8a
18	32 metri di delusione	32m		7c+
19	Tatanka	25m		8a
20	Super Tatanka	35m		8a+
21	Bucomagia	25m		7a
22	Les prestiges	25m		7b+
23	Come sei cambiata... Ugo	25m		7c+
24	Strudel boy	25m		8b
25	Soul man	25m		8b
26	Il volto e l'anima	25m		8a+
27	Energia = mc2	25m		8b
28	Zeitmaschin	25m		8a+
29	Ex-Express	25m		8a
30	Zenith	25m		8a+
31	Out	15m		6a
32	Knock out	25m		7c
33	Just married	20m		7b

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Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

6a - 8b

Routes number

32

Rock type

Limestone

Orientation

South

Rope

60m rope

Position

Crags in the same region