1 / 1Stohlwond
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a - 8b
Routes number
79
Rock type
Gneiss
Orientation
South
When the days get shorter and temperatures drop, the locals of Ratschings/Racines start warming up for the main season: the crag "Stohlwond" near Sterzing/Vipiteno is one of the most beautiful of Wipptal-Valley and is highly recommendable for warm days in autumn. Thanks to the southern orientation of the wall, it is possible to climb until November. There are numerous routes from the third to the tenth grade on a very beautiful rock.
Situated in an idyllic Alpine scenery, the climbing spot offers a fantastic view on already white peaks. In autumn and also in spring, one often shares the place with the native ibex. If you are lucky, you can even watch them walk over the slabby 5c-routes of the sector "Alpenzoo".
The classic sectors "Schweinebucht" and "Hennenloater" offer varied climbing on up to 35 meter long routes (5a to 8a). The classic "Is Weiße vom Speck" has been the first 8a of the area. Those who are looking for greater challenges have to make their way up to the sector "Bockhaus". The approach is relatively strenuous, but other than that, the climbing on 7a and 8b routes is very spectacular.
Situated in an idyllic Alpine scenery, the climbing spot offers a fantastic view on already white peaks. In autumn and also in spring, one often shares the place with the native ibex. If you are lucky, you can even watch them walk over the slabby 5c-routes of the sector "Alpenzoo".
The classic sectors "Schweinebucht" and "Hennenloater" offer varied climbing on up to 35 meter long routes (5a to 8a). The classic "Is Weiße vom Speck" has been the first 8a of the area. Those who are looking for greater challenges have to make their way up to the sector "Bockhaus". The approach is relatively strenuous, but other than that, the climbing on 7a and 8b routes is very spectacular.
Access
Arrival: Coming from north and south, take the A22 and exit for Sterzing/Vipiteno. From Sterzing/ Vipiteno drive in direction Ratschings (turn left at the locality Stanghe). Pass the skiing area Ratschings (Bichl) and continue in direction Flading. At first, the narrow road leads up steeply, then it descends again. Once arrived at the bottom, park the car just after the bridge on the left side.
Zustieg: Walk along the gravel road out of the valley. After five minutes, you will reach a branch-off. Turn left and continue shortly afterwards on a signposted path which leads through the forest to the wall (ten minutes). For the sectors “Alpenzoo”, “Schwert” and “Bockhaus” follow the trail which leads through sector “Hennenstoll” past the waterfall. Period
March - November Bibliography
VERTICAL-LIFE INFO GUIDEBOOKS
Sportclimbing in the Dolomites, Dolomiten – Dolomiti
Best of Arco
Download the guide as App Android from Google Play. Until the end of December 2013 the 56 crags in the South Tyrol can be downloaded free of charge.
Arrival: Coming from north and south, take the A22 and exit for Sterzing/Vipiteno. From Sterzing/ Vipiteno drive in direction Ratschings (turn left at the locality Stanghe). Pass the skiing area Ratschings (Bichl) and continue in direction Flading. At first, the narrow road leads up steeply, then it descends again. Once arrived at the bottom, park the car just after the bridge on the left side.
Zustieg: Walk along the gravel road out of the valley. After five minutes, you will reach a branch-off. Turn left and continue shortly afterwards on a signposted path which leads through the forest to the wall (ten minutes). For the sectors “Alpenzoo”, “Schwert” and “Bockhaus” follow the trail which leads through sector “Hennenstoll” past the waterfall. Period
March - November Bibliography
VERTICAL-LIFE INFO GUIDEBOOKS
Sportclimbing in the Dolomites, Dolomiten – Dolomiti
Best of Arco
Download the guide as App Android from Google Play. Until the end of December 2013 the 56 crags in the South Tyrol can be downloaded free of charge.
Sectors
Stohlwond
Routes
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Steinschlag | |
6b | |
| Settore Schweinebucht | ||||
| 1 | Die Blaue Sau | |
6c | |
| Settore Schweinebucht | ||||
| 1 | Is Weiße fin Speck | |
8a | |
| Settore Schweinebucht | ||||
| 1 | Fressen... | |
6c | |
| Settore Schweinebucht | ||||
| 1 | oder Sterben | |
7b+ | |
| Settore Schweinebucht | ||||
| 1 | Staudenparcour | |
5c+ | |
| Settore Schweinebucht | ||||
| 1 | Cala Luna | |
6a+ | |
| Settore Schweinebucht | ||||
| 1 | Wet Wet Wet | |
7a+ | |
| Settore Bockhaus | ||||
| 1 | Pumpstation | |
7b+ | |
| Settore Bockhaus | ||||
| 1 | Dirty Harry | |
8a | |
| Settore Bockhaus | ||||
| 1 | Bockklassik | |
6a | |
| Settore Bockhaus | ||||
| 1 | Stresstest | |
8a+ | |
| Settore Bockhaus | ||||
| 1 | Free Willy | |
4a | |
| Settore Hennenloater | ||||
| 1 | Hennenloater | |
5a | |
| Settore Hennenloater | ||||
| 1 | Knöpfli | |
5b | |
| Settore Hennenloater | ||||
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a - 8b
Routes number
79
Rock type
Gneiss
Orientation
South
Crags in the same region
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17/10/2013 - Climbing
Climbing at Stohlwond, Racines Stohlwond,the small autumn paradise close to Sterzing. The second in our series "Crags for each season" published together with Vertical-Life.info.