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Crepo Longo

Italy>Veneto>Belluno>Cortina d'Ampezzo

Enrico Maioni, Guida Alpina

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Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

4a - 6c

Link

www.guidedolomiti.com

Routes number

Rock type

Limestone

Orientation

South-west

Rope

70m

Something like this had been missing: a crag with lots of easy routes, up excellent quality rock, ideal for those who although they don't master the hardest difficulties, enjoy climbing for the sake of it, ideally in magnificent surroundings. Tahnks to the tried and tested collaboration between the Cortina Mountain Guides and the Faloria cable car, a new crag was recently equipped above Cortina on the rocky outcrop called Crepo Longo, sul Monte Faloria.At present the crag hosts 26 pitches up soldi greyish-black rock. Most climbs are in the 6a/6b region, but there are some 5c's, two grade IV routes and at present just one 6c. The ease of access and south-west orientation combined with the beauty of the routes render Crepo Longo well-worth a visitI would like to take this occasion to mention the nearby Via ferrata Sci Club 18, certainly the hardest ferrata in Cortina which I have already described in the past. For more information about the Faloria area, visit the site Cortinacube.

Access
The easiest way to get there is definitely by using the Faloria cable car, from the centre of Cortina. At the top descend north-east down the winter piste. Before reaching the start of the chairlift which leads to Tondi di Faloria take the obvious path signposted for the crag. The walk-in takes circa 20 minutes, download the GPS track in the pdf on the right. Alternatively, start from Rio Gere (by the Cristallo and Faloria chairlift), on the road which leads from Cortina to Passo Tre Croci. Park the car and continue on foot along the dirt road (path #212) which winds its way along the Faloria piste to reach the start of the chairlift which leads up to Tondi. Continue on to quickly reach the crag. This option is obviously far longer, calculate circa 1 hour for the walk-in. Period
The crag faces south-west and as such receives the sun until late in the day. Climb
Vertical face climbing with plenty of holds. The harder pitches have some slightly overhanging sections.

Sectors

Crepo Longo

The routes from right to left. The names of the routes are painted at the bottom of the crag.

Routes

N°	Name	Difficulty
1	Montana	5c, 6b
2	Pik me	6a
3	Saved	6a+
4	Be free	6a+, 6a+, 6a+
5	Gully spit	5c, 6b, 6a
6	Red air	6a
7	Hot rat	5c
8	Why not	6a+
9	Baby snakes	5c
10	Tell me	5c
11	Solid rock	6b+
12	Once again	6b+
13	Do not pass	6b+
14	Too hard	6b+
15	So hard	6c
16	Ski-ing	6b
17	Shake	6a
18	Schotting	5c, 6a
19	Red sky	4a
20	One size	4a