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Chinesische Mauer in Austria
Nicholas Hobley
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5c - 8c/8c+
Height
150m
Link
Routes number
163
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
South
Rope
70m
Located on the border between Austria and Germany, the Chinesiche Mauer is one of best and biggest climbing areas in the Tyrol. The massive wall forms part of the Öfelekopfes in the Wetterstein mountain range and suddenly springs impressively into view from the beautiful and lush U-shaped valley as you drive north. Despite its ease of access the first routes were established surprisingly late, namely at the end of the 80's. Tyrol activist Reinhold Scherer spearheaded further development in the summers between 1992 - 1994 and left his mark with the 8b testpiece Future Shock. Much Mair upped the ante a decade later and while in 2006 Jorg Verhoeven established the crag's hardest, The Great Gig in the Sky 8c/8c+, Alexandra and Matthias Robl concentrated their efforts on developing the somewhat easier sector Hong Kong circa 15 minutes left of the main cliff. The climbing at Tyrol's Chinese Wall is extremely varied, sporting crimps, pockets, long stamina routes, short cruxy testpieces... Technique though is the name of the game at this Austrian crag which is well worth a visit.
Access
The Chinesiche Mauer is located circa 45 km northwest of Innsbruck. From Innsbruck head NW along the A12, then exit for Seefeld. At Seefeld continue towards Leutasch but at the fork at Weidach bear north for Puitbach and park on the right, opposite Landhaus Puitbach. Walk past Landhaus Puitbach and a few other houses, then enter the forest and bear left and walk up to the crag. Allow circa 20 minutes for the walk-in. Logistics
Landhaus Puitback immediately beneath the crag, camping and appartments at Leutasch. Period
Spring, summer, autumn Climb
Extremely varied but always technical climbing up crimps, pockets, long stamina routes, short cruxy testpieces... Notes
- Leutasch Camping
The crag is not suitable for children and in winter exposed to avalanches. Check weather bulletins with care. Bibliography
Kletterführer Tirol - Michael Meisl
The Chinesiche Mauer is located circa 45 km northwest of Innsbruck. From Innsbruck head NW along the A12, then exit for Seefeld. At Seefeld continue towards Leutasch but at the fork at Weidach bear north for Puitbach and park on the right, opposite Landhaus Puitbach. Walk past Landhaus Puitbach and a few other houses, then enter the forest and bear left and walk up to the crag. Allow circa 20 minutes for the walk-in. Logistics
Landhaus Puitback immediately beneath the crag, camping and appartments at Leutasch. Period
Spring, summer, autumn Climb
Extremely varied but always technical climbing up crimps, pockets, long stamina routes, short cruxy testpieces... Notes
- Leutasch Camping
The crag is not suitable for children and in winter exposed to avalanches. Check weather bulletins with care. Bibliography
Kletterführer Tirol - Michael Meisl
See all photosSectors
Chinesische Mauer
The routes listed below are located in the Hauptsektor.
Routes
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Time flies | 30m | |
7b+ |
| 2 | Koffer Hoffer | 35m | |
7b |
| 3 | Leopartie | 15m | |
7c |
| 4 | Watschenmann | 25m | |
8a |
| 5 | Madame Butterfly | 50m | |
7b+ |
| 6 | Don Juan | 25m | |
7b |
| 7 | Link the Butle | 25m | |
7c |
| 8 | Hanuman | 25m | |
7c |
| 9 | Tschai Hil | 12m | |
7a |
| 10 | Nachtisch | 15m | |
7c/7c+ |
| 11 | Shir Khan | 15m | |
7c+ |
| 12 | Shir Khan direkt | 15m | |
7c+/8a |
| 13 | Pistolero | 10m | |
7c+/8a |
| 14 | Caramba Khan | |
8a | |
| 15 | Madame Link | |
7a+ | |
| 16 | Hanulero | |
8a+/8b | |
| 17 | Hanuramba | |
8b+ | |
| 18 | Hanuchalk | |
8a+ | |
| 19 | Caramba Hil | |
7c | |
| 20 | Linkshänder | 10m | |
8a+ |
| 21 | Caramba | 10m | |
8a |
| 22 | Für eine Handvoll Chalk | 8m | |
7b |
| 23 | Reblaus | 10m | |
6c+ |
| 24 | Henkelparade | 10m | |
7a |
| 25 | Ping Pong | 10m | |
6a+ |
| 26 | Nasenbär | |
7a+ | |
| 27 | Der Tanz des Tausendfüßlers | 55m | |
7c+ |
| 28 | Sonntagsspaziergang | 20m | |
6a+ |
| 29 | Esel streck dich | 32m | |
7b+/7c |
| 30 | Parade ohne Henkel | 25m | |
7a+ |
| 31 | Verlängerung | 38m | |
7b+/7c |
| 32 | Mai Ling | 100m | |
6a, 6a+, 5c, 6b |
| 33 | Pagodenpfad | 100m | |
5c, 6a+, 5c, 6a |
| 34 | Broadway | 35m | |
7b+ |
| 35 | Der letzte Kaiser | 45m | |
8b+ |
| 36 | Tote Hose | 18m | |
8a |
| 37 | Project | |
? |
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5c - 8c/8c+
Height
150m
Link
Routes number
163
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
South
Rope
70m
Crags in the same region
Related news
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Chinesische Mauer, climbing in Austria Located on the border between Austria and Germany, the Chinesiche Mauer is one of best and biggest climbing areas in the Tyrol.