Bohinjska Bela

Slovenia>Gorenjska>Bled
Urban Golob
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Matej Sova on Privid 8c+ at Bohinjska Bela, Slovenia
Urban Golob
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
3 - 8c+
Height
35m
Routes number
100
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
East
Rope
70m


Bohinjska Bela is one of Slovenia's classic crags. It is located close to the picturesque lake Bled, possibly Slovenia's most famous tourist area at the foot of the Julian Alps.

Bohinska Bela is in fact a small village just a couple of kilometers south of Bled, located immediately beneath the interesting limestone cliffs. The history of climbing on this rock face goes back to the late 1960's when Marjan Manfreda - the famous Slovenian alpinist who summited Makalu without supplementary oxygen via the huge and steep South Face in 1975, three years before Messner and Habler famously summited Everest in 1978 - started to train just behind his house in Bohinjska Bela.

But the real development of the Bohinjska Bela sport crag started at about the same time as Misja Pec at Osp. It is no surprise therefore that the creativity at both beautiful areas was driven by the same man - Sreco Rehberger, who established most classic routes in Misja pec and here in Bohinjska Bela. The style of climbing differs since, unlike steep Misja Pec, the vertical and slightly overhanging slabs in Bohinjska Bela require precise footwork and strong fingers. A similar story can be found in another sector called "The New Bela", hidden from view in the forest nearby. The only difference between the old and the new sector is that the New Bela is mostly a summer climbing sector while the original or Old Bela is good for autumn and spring or even for sunny winter days. In addition, there is another sector on the opposite side of the valley called Kupljenik: located in the deep shadow of forest, this is a typical summer climbing refuge.

There are more than 100 routes to choose from at Bohinjska Bela and the difficulties range from beginners up to 8c+, although it has to be said that there are not many easy routes and most tend to be harder than 6b. The climbing in Bohinjska Bela is recognised by Slovenian climbers as being one of the best in the country and consequently it is quite popular, especially in summer.

Access

Bled lies circa 50km NW of Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. From Bled drive SW toward Bohinj and exit Bohinjska Bela. Drive through the village and park the car, taking care not to obstruct the road. Continue along road then break off right and walk up steeply though the forest to the crag.

Logistics

There is a garni pension "Pr Bevc" in the immediate vicinity of the crag at Bohinjska Bela. Another option is the campsite Zaka at Bled, as well as numerous other possibilities (B&B's, hotels) in Bled.

Period

Summer, spring and autumn.

Climb

The vertical and slightly overhanging rock faces require precise footwork and strong fingers.

Notes

Bohinjska Bela is suitable for families with children.

Bibliography

"Slovenia - Climbing guide" by Sidarta




Sectors

Bohinjska Bela
A selection of some of the best routes at Bohinjska Bela, located in the sectors New Bela, Old Bela and Kupljenik.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Zenska za nagrado 8a
2 Soca dance 6b+
3 Nathalie 7b
4 Hijacinta 6c
5 Madonna 7b+
6 Stephanie 7c
7 Ekosistem 8a
8 Poezija 6c+
9 Adria 7c+
10 Teta Liza 7b
11 Samba 7a
12 Jive 7a+
13 Poper in sol 7b+
14 Tit Andonik 7c
15 Kuscar 7a+
16 Slepec 7c





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
3 - 8c+
Height
35m
Routes number
100
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
East
Rope
70m


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