Stanage Edge
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Nicholas Hobley, photos Alessandro Baù
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Elio Bonfanti
Rocca Nera di Caprie
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
M - E8
Height
25m
Link
Routes number
1300
Rock type
Gritstone
Orientation
W
Rope
2 half ropes.
The immense 7km long Stanage Edge is certainly the most famous gritstone crag in England. The outcrop is highly popular, partly because of its proximity to both Sheffield and Manchester, but above all due of its wealth of quality routes. The first climbs date all the way back to 1890 and over 1300 routes have now been established along the edge, ranging from Moderate to desperate E8 - enough to last a lifetime! The vast majority of routes are relatively easy and ideal therefore for beginners as they tend to follow well-protected crack lines. Having said that, the smooth faces and rounded arête are a brilliant natural playground for those in search of quality testpieces. Climbers visiting the area for the first time shouldn't miss out on the Flying Buttress at the Popular End and the routes on High Neb. Joe Brown's 1949 Right Unconquerable HVS 5a is the classic route of the crag, but Quietus E2 5c and Old Friends E4 5c are equally famous. The stunning barn door arête Archangel E3 5b at Goliath's Groove is psychologically demanding while its neighbour Ulysses E6 6b is a rite of passage to the upper extremes. The highly popular Plantation area hosts some of the finest and most famous boulder problems in the country, such as the dream crescendio Crescent Arete Fb 5+, Not to be Taken Away Fb6c, The Green Traverse Fb7a, Brad Pitt Fb7c+ and Jerry Moffat's The Joker Fb 8a. The outcrop varies in height up to 25m and due to its hilltop location can, at times, be extremely windy and cold. Luckily Hathersage with its warm cafes and welcoming pubs is nearby.
Access
From Sheffield or Manchester drive to Hathersage along the A6187. From the centre of Hathersage bear right down Dale Bottom and continue until the southern end of the crag springs into view. Popular End (South end) Park at Hooks Carr (SK 245830). Walk in from the parking in about 5 mins. There is also a bus from Sheffield, check out the link below. Plantation Area (central section of the crag) Turn off left and coast the crag until you reach the Plantation (Hollin Bank) parking on the right. High Neb (North end) The Stanage Bus from Sheffield or continue past the Plantation to the limited car parking at SK 227843 (Dennis Knoll). Calculate 30 minutes for the walk-in. Logistics
Accommodation in Hathersage. Campsite at North Lees, just 15 minutes walk from the cliff. (01433 650383). Period
Spring and autumn. On clear winter days the friction is at its best, but beware of strong winds. Climb
Gritstone climbing at its best: technical, balancy, powerful and pumpy all at the same time. The crag is ideal for families. Notes
The Peak District
Squashed between the northern industrial cities Manchester and Sheffield, the Peak District has always been a haven of peace for those fleeing these massive industrial metropolis in search of solitude and untouched nature. Dotted within this rolling countryside are rugged gritstone outcrops, each unique, each with routes of almost all grades and danger levels. "God's own rock", as it is often described, can be so addictive that it is not uncommon to see climbers continuing even when it rains; saner wet weather alternatives include a visit to one of the numerous indoor climbing walls or an enormous mug of tea in a cafe.
Stanage Access Issues
Stanage is one of the most frequented crags in the world. On busy weekends parking can be a problem and the Peak District National Park Authority have introduced a series of traffic management measures to address this. Furthermore, there are problems with car crime in the Stanage area. Do not leave any valubles on display. For full information check out www.thebmc.co.uk and download the Stanage bus timetable. Bibliography
Stanage - the Definitive Guide by Niall Grimes, BMC
Eastern Grit - by Chris Craggs and Alan James, RockFax
Map: OS Landranger 110
From Sheffield or Manchester drive to Hathersage along the A6187. From the centre of Hathersage bear right down Dale Bottom and continue until the southern end of the crag springs into view. Popular End (South end) Park at Hooks Carr (SK 245830). Walk in from the parking in about 5 mins. There is also a bus from Sheffield, check out the link below. Plantation Area (central section of the crag) Turn off left and coast the crag until you reach the Plantation (Hollin Bank) parking on the right. High Neb (North end) The Stanage Bus from Sheffield or continue past the Plantation to the limited car parking at SK 227843 (Dennis Knoll). Calculate 30 minutes for the walk-in. Logistics
Accommodation in Hathersage. Campsite at North Lees, just 15 minutes walk from the cliff. (01433 650383). Period
Spring and autumn. On clear winter days the friction is at its best, but beware of strong winds. Climb
Gritstone climbing at its best: technical, balancy, powerful and pumpy all at the same time. The crag is ideal for families. Notes
The Peak District
Squashed between the northern industrial cities Manchester and Sheffield, the Peak District has always been a haven of peace for those fleeing these massive industrial metropolis in search of solitude and untouched nature. Dotted within this rolling countryside are rugged gritstone outcrops, each unique, each with routes of almost all grades and danger levels. "God's own rock", as it is often described, can be so addictive that it is not uncommon to see climbers continuing even when it rains; saner wet weather alternatives include a visit to one of the numerous indoor climbing walls or an enormous mug of tea in a cafe.
Stanage Access Issues
Stanage is one of the most frequented crags in the world. On busy weekends parking can be a problem and the Peak District National Park Authority have introduced a series of traffic management measures to address this. Furthermore, there are problems with car crime in the Stanage area. Do not leave any valubles on display. For full information check out www.thebmc.co.uk and download the Stanage bus timetable. Bibliography
Stanage - the Definitive Guide by Niall Grimes, BMC
Eastern Grit - by Chris Craggs and Alan James, RockFax
Map: OS Landranger 110
See all photosSectors
Goliath's Area
Goliath's Area is located above the Plantation, circa halfway along the crag. To get there stroll up from the Plantation Path from the Plantation (Hollin Bank) parking in 10 minutes.
Routes
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | The Introvert | 8m |  |
E2 5c |
| 2 | Outlook Buttress | 10m | |
HVS 5b |
| 3 | Tying the Knot | 9m | |
E3 6a |
| 4 | Look Before you Leap | 8m | |
E1 5c/6b |
| 5 | Outlook Layback | 7m | |
S 4a |
| 6 | A Thousand Natural Shocks | 6m | |
HVS 5c |
| 7 | Weather Report | 9m | |
E6 6b |
| 8 | Nordes with Attitude | 9m | |
E4 6c |
| 9 | Outlook Crack | 8m | |
VS 4c |
| 10 | Outlook Chimney | 7m | |
VS 5a |
| 11 | Didn't Get Where I am Today | 8m | |
E2 5b |
| 12 | Lookout Flake | 7m | |
S 4b |
| 13 | Shard | 7m | |
HVS 5b |
| 14 | Splinter | 7m | |
HVS 5b |
| 15 | Rebel Yell | 10m | |
VS 4c |
| 16 | Tales of Yankee Power | 10m | |
E1 5c |
| 17 | Flaky Wall | 10m | |
E1 5b |
| 18 | Bastille | 10m | |
E1 5b |
| 19 | Shaky Gully | 8m | |
S |
| 20 | Amphitheatre Face | 8m | |
VS 5a/c |
| 21 | Ladder Cracks | 8m | |
VD |
| 22 | Ladder Corner | 8m | |
M |
| 23 | Tears and Guts | 8m | |
E2 6a |
| 24 | Whimper | 7m | |
S 4a |
| 25 | Argus | 8m | |
E2 5b |
| 26 | Silk | 16m | |
E6 6c |
| 27 | Silk Start | |
V7 (6c) | |
| 28 | Fern Crack | 16m | |
VS 5a |
| 29 | Polished Bump | |
V7 (6c) | |
| 30 | Help the Aged | |
V7 (6c) | |
| 31 | Help Right-Hand | |
V8 (6c) | |
| 32 | Fern Groove | 17m | |
E2 5c |
| 33 | Smash Your Glasses | 9m | |
E5 6b |
| 34 | Toothcomb | 12m | |
VS 4c |
| 35 | Virginia Calling | 14m | |
HVS 5a |
| 36 | Wall End Slab | 22m | |
VS 5a |
| 37 | Bridge's Variation | 14m | |
VS 5a |
| 38 | Wall End Slab Super Duper Direct | 14m | |
E3 5c |
| 39 | Wall End Slab Direct | 15m | |
E3 5c |
| 40 | Pure, White and Deadly | 14m | |
E2 5c |
| 41 | Wall End Grab | |
V3 (6a) | |
| 42 | Impure, Grey and Mildly Threatening | 6m | |
S 4b |
| 43 | Narlavision | 7m | |
HVS 5b |
| 44 | Standing Around Trying | 7m | |
VS 5a |
| 45 | Sittin' here Drinkin' | 7m | |
HVS 5b |
| 46 | Jammed Stone Chimney | 8m | |
HD |
| 47 | Doesn'tneedaweed | 6m | |
HVD |
| 48 | The Prince | |
V6 (6b) | |
| 49 | Bunny Wailer | |
V5 (6b) | |
| 50 | Mo Tucker | |
V1 (5b) | |
| 51 | Mate | 7m | |
E1 5b |
| 52 | Cheque | 7m | |
VD |
| 53 | Frankie Ferocious | 7m | |
E3 6a |
| 54 | Giro | 9m | |
E2 5c |
| 55 | P.O. Crack | 8m | |
VS 4c |
| 56 | Slanting Chimney | 10m | |
HS 4b |
| 57 | The Coign | 16m | |
HS 4b |
| 58 | Outlook Slab | 16m | |
VS 5a |
| 59 | Wall End Crack | 16m | |
S 4b |
| 60 | Death and Night and Blood | 18m | |
E1 5b |
| 61 | Wall End Flake Crack | 20m | |
VS 4c |
| 62 | Wall End Holly Tree Crack | 18m | |
HS 4b |
| 63 | I Never Said It Was Any Good | 18m | |
E1 5b |
| 64 | Helfenstein's Struggle | 20m | |
VD |
| 65 | Saul's Arête | 22m | |
VS 4b |
| 66 | Dark Angel | 21m | |
E2 5b |
| 67 | The Archangel | 20m | |
E3 5b |
| 68 | Don | 21m | |
E4 5c |
| 69 | Goliath's Groove | 21m | |
HVS 5a |
| 70 | Ulysses | 20m | |
E6 6b |
| 71 | Holly Bush Gully Left | 21m | |
HS 4b |
| 72 | White Wand | 23m | |
E5 6a |
| 73 | Holly Bush Gully Right | 20m | |
D |
| 74 | The Wall End Traverse | 70m | |
VS 4c |
| 75 | Fairy Groove | |
V5 (6b) | |
| 76 | Gnome Man's Land | 20m | |
E5 6b |
| 77 | Fairy Steps | 15m | |
VS 4a |
| 78 | Double Act | 12m | |
HVS 5c |
Comments
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
M - E8
Height
25m
Link
Routes number
1300
Rock type
Gritstone
Orientation
W
Rope
2 half ropes.
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